Rhubarb And Pineapple Marmalade, Rosa Lee Binger

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Prince George’s County hasn’t made many appearances on this blog thus far, despite being my place of origin. Awhile back, I came across some “Maryland Cooking” recipes printed in The Washington Times in 1921, from “The Melwood Cook Book.” I managed to find a copy and photographed it for archive.org before passing it along to the Maryland Historical Society.

A lot of the names in the book are members of prominent families from the Upper Marlboro area – Duvall, Bowie, Pumphrey. This recipe was attributed to “Mrs. Fred Binger.”

Frederick Binger was the son of Henrietta and John Binger, Germans who moved to Pennsylvania before or around when Frederick was born (1851). Census records throughout his life list Frederick Binger as a farm “laborer.” Frederick’s first marriage ended in tragedy in 1876 when his wife dropped an oil lamp, which exploded and caught her dress on fire. She did not survive the accident.

Frederick and his brother John acquired an estate near Upper Marlboro known as “Mount Clare.” The property had been owned by Richard O. Mullikin, a planter (tobacco, presumably) who “moved in the same social circles as the Claggetts and Bowies, and other wealthy landowners of the Marlboro area.”

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1878 Atlas showing Fred Binger’s property, Maryland State Archives

In 1896, Fred Binger married a distant relative of Mullikin’s. Rosa Lee Duckett, the daughter of farmer Benjamin Lee Duckett, who was “one of the most highly respected citizens of [Prince George’s County,]” according to the Washington Times.

Rosa is, I believe, the “Mrs. Fred Binger” found in the Melwood Cook Book. In the early 1900s, Rosa took prizes in the state fair for her rolls and sweet pickles. She contributed all kinds of recipes to the Melwood cookbook: cakes, chow-chow, apple butter, and scrapple (remember, Mr. Binger was technically a Pennsylvania German), just to name a few.

I haven’t done anything with rhubarb this year and I love pineapple, so this Pineapple Rhubarb Marmalade seemed like a good choice. Technically it is more of a preserve than a marmalade since there is no citrus peel in it. When it came off the stove, the cooked pineapple taste was dominant. I figured this recipe must have been an economical way to get more mileage out of the pineapple. As it cooled down and sat a few days, the rhubarb tartness came through.

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Mount Clare/Charles Branch/Binger Farm, Maryland Historical Trust

I’ve always been a big fan of Strawberry Rhubarb Cobbler but now I can see the appeal of rhubarb preserves. Without committing to finishing an entire cobbler, I can snack on this taste of spring at any time for weeks to come.

Rosa Binger died in 1959. Some Washington Post mentions indicate that some of Fred and Rosa’s descendants still reside in the Upper Marlboro area.

I’ll have to try to make more of the P.G. County recipes from the Melwood Cook Book and Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland. There is a lot of history to learn about, and plenty of recipes to go along with it.

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Recipe:

  • 5 Lb rhubarb*
  • 5 Lb sugar
  • 1 pineapple

Cut rhubarb and pineapple fine, add sugar and let it stand over night. Put in preserving kettle and cook until like jelly.

Recipe from “The Melwood Cook Book” by the Women’s Club Of Melwood District

* I divided this recipe in third by weight.

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Brown Fricassee, Elizabeth Isabella Purviance

The “Purviance Family Papers” at Duke University’s David M. Rubenstein Rare Book & Manuscript Library contain a near syllabus of early U.S. History: “Revolutionary War activities”, “Civil War veterans’ activities”, “U.S. relations with Napoleon.” They also contain some of the oldest Maryland cooking manuscripts – two small books filled with handwritten recipes, remedies (my favorite is the “Cure For Weak And Weeping Eyes”), and some agricultural ‘lifehacks’ pasted into the covers.

Continue reading “Brown Fricassee, Elizabeth Isabella Purviance”

Brownies, “The Misses Reynolds,” Rose Hill Manor Inn

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2018 seems to be the year of sweets for Old Line Plate. I haven’t had any complaints yet so I’ll keep going with that. For this simple (and delicious) recipe I reached for my trusty copy of “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland.”

Rose Hill Manor is just the kind of estate that EDBM author Frederick Phillip Stieff loved to rave about. Built in the Greek Revival style in the 1790s by Ann Jennings Johnson and her husband Major John Graeme, Rose Hill Manor is most famous for being the home of Ann’s father Thomas Johnson, who was the first governor of Maryland, from 1777-1779. The elder Johnson had been a friend and supporter of George Washington, had been involved in the planning of Washington D.C., and was a delegate in the Maryland Constitutional Convention. Some of the outbuildings at Rose Hill are still standing, including an icehouse, a smokehouse, and a laundry. In the 1970s, a log-cabin was moved to the property from elsewhere in the Frederick area. The slave-quarters are no longer standing but the Graemes and Johnson had all been slave-owners, and at least 30 people had been enslaved at Rose Hill.

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Postcard, Rose Hill Manor Inn

Maryland Historical Trust documents about the property make sure to mention that George Washington did NOT visit Johnson there. Washington had died by the time Johnson moved in with his daughter, or else I am sure he would have visited Rose Hill, since that guy went everywhere.

From 1915 to about 1935, the manor was operating as an inn under the management of “The Misses Reynolds.” “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland” was published in 1932, and the five “Rose Hill Manor Inn” recipes included in the book are attributed to the Reynolds: “Brownies,” “Chicken Sago Soup,” “Ginger Pears,” “India Chutney Sauce,” and “Fried Chicken.”

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Frederick County,” The Historical Society of Frederick County

I couldn’t find out very much about these Reynolds sisters. They came from Scranton, Pennsylvania. Lydia Jane (“L. Jane”) was the eldest, born in 1857, Clair was born in 1864. Their niece Agnes Rice was also involved in the operation of the business, as was a black servant named Bessie Ceaser. The census refers to the inn as a “Tea House,” perhaps because that was a common business for women to operate. After their inn-running adventure, the sisters returned to the Scranton area where they lived until the 1940s, Clair passing away in 1941 and L. Jane in 1948.

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Rose Hill Manor Ice House, Maryland Historical Trust

Rose Hill Manor is now a park and museum with an exhibit on the life of Governor Thomas Johnson, “as well as the history of agriculture and transportation in Frederick County.” They have a lot of programming geared toward children.

These brownies were excellent despite my not having an appropriate pan, and the center staying a little gooey. I used what I had on hand – some 74% baking wafers. I enjoyed them with friends and we wondered about the crusty tops. It turns out that is from the egg-whites and sugar – kind of a type of meringue. Now you know!

Even with the wet center and cutting the brownies like pie, the entire pan got eaten IMMEDIATELY. This leaves room on my kitchen counter for yet more desserts so stay tuned.

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Recipes:

  • 2 eggs
  • 1 Cup sugar
  • .5 Cup flour
  • .5 Cup melted butter
  • 2 oz chocolate
  • 1 Cup nuts

Beat eggs and sugar together, then beat in flour, mixing well. Melt butter & chocolate & beat into eggs. Stir in nuts. Bake for about 20 minutes at 400°.

Beat eggs and sugar together, then beat in flour, mixing well. Melt butter & chocolate & beat into eggs. Stir in nuts. Bake for about 20 minutes at 400°.

Recipe adapted from “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland

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