Deviled Eggs 3 Ways

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“The Baltimore Sun rises to remark that its idea of a ‘sane Fourth [of July]’ is ‘oodles of fried chicken, deviled eggs and chocolate ice cream. It may be all right for the Fourth, but it does not argue well for a comfortable fifth.” – Racine Journal, WI, July 4, 1911

For a while now I’ve been wanting to do a post where I compared some of the many deviled egg recipes in my collection. This post is hopefully part one of at least two.

When I pulled my various recipes for “Deviled Eggs,” “Picnic Eggs,” or “Stuffed Eggs,” I found some surprising trends. The “Stuffed Eggs,” as most 19th century recipes called them, were often broiled, baked, or even… deep fried. The fried eggs were typically seasoned then the halves reassembled, bound together with raw egg, and then breaded and fried. I decided that type of recipe was another category altogether so I set those aside for another day. 

Other “Stuffed Eggs” recipes pretty much resemble a deviled egg with the added step of heating the eggs up. I’m not sure why exactly this fell out of favor – it may have been because deviled eggs became associated with picnic food.
The concept of “deviling” dates as far back as 1786, allegedly referring to the spicy mustard or cayenne pepper used to season foods.

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The term was not limited to eggs and the wildly-popular deviled crab.

The 1845 UK cookbook “The Cooks Oracle” follows a recipe for an anchovy toast spread, adding that a “Deviled Biscuit” could be made with the same spread on a warm biscuit “with a sufficient quantity of salt and savoury Spice, Zest, Curry Powder, or Cayenne Pepper sprinkled over it.”  In Maryland cookbooks, I have found recipes for deviled: oysters, turkey, fish, tomatoes, clams, ham, lobster, chicken, pecans, crackers, and cheese.

Eggs are probably one of the easiest items to “devil,” and as a result, the most enduring. Early 20th-century newspaper recipes offer a few variations – meats mixed in, using the vinegar from pickled beets. It was in the mid-century that people really started getting creative with deviled eggs. For this post, I present two 19th century recipes*, served cold, plus one from nearly a century later. 

“Chutney Eggs,” from the Park School cookbook contain a salty-sweet mixture combination that was not as weird as I first expected. One taster commented that they tasted like “peanut butter and jelly.”

Next go-round, I’ll take a stab at some of the hot and deep-fried eggs. Maybe I will discover why they didn’t remain popular!

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Stuffed or Picnic Eggs:

  • 19 eggs, hard-boiled
  • ham, chopped
  • .5 Cup cream
  • 1 raw egg, beaten
  • .5 Teaspoon salt
  • .5 Teaspoon pepper
  • 1 Teaspoon mustard powder
  • .5 Teaspoon sugar
  • .5 Cup vinegar

Boil nineteen eggs twenty minutes, then put in cold water, when cool take off the shells, and cut in half, remove the yolks and fill the whites with this mixture: one cup fine chopped ham, yolks of seven of the boiled eggs moistened with a salad dressing of one-half cup cream, one egg, one-half tea- spoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful black pepper, one level teaspoonful of mustard, one half teaspoonful sugar, beat all together, andthe last thing, add one-half cup sour vinegar, set in a kettle of boiling water and stir till it thickens.

Recipe from “The Favorite Receipt Book and Business Directory,” Ladies Aid Society of the Church of the Holy Comforter, 1884

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🐔🐔🐔

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Deviled Eggs:

  • 12 hard-boiled eggs
  • a piece of butter the size of an egg
  • salt to taste
  • .5 Teaspoons sugar
  • .5 teaspoons mustard powder
  • 1 tablespoon vinegar
  • parsley

1 dozen eggs; boil 20 minutes; throw into cold water to cool; peel and cut exactly in half; take out yolks; put them in small saucepan; add to them a piece of butter the size of an egg, a little salt, ½ teaspoonful of sugar, ½ teaspoonful of mustard, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. Stir all together over fire until well mixed. When mixed put back into the place from which the yolk was taken so as to look like the natural egg; cut off the lower end of the egg, so as to make them stand on the dish. Dress with parsley; if used for breakfast put in oven and brown lightly.

Recipe from “Tried Recipes”, The Ladies Guild of the Associate Reformed Congregation, 1896

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🐔🐔🐔

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Chutney Eggs:

  • 12 hard-boiled eggs
  • ¼ to ½ Cup chutney
  • 6 slices cooked, crumbled bacon
  • 3 Tablespoons mayonnaise

Halve eggs. Mash yolks and add next 3 ingredients. Stuff eggs.

Recipe from Mrs. George Dalsheimer in “The Park School Cookbook,” 1964

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* Special thanks to Atomic Books/Eightbar for hosting a deviled egg gathering, and to Kristina Gaddy for successfully creating the 1896 recipe for deviled eggs – accompanying photos c/o Gaddy.

Risotto , “College Cookery”

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Boxes of confectionery, cake, etc., sent to students, so far from being the kindness intended, are a positive source of evil. Their contents, eaten, as is generally the case, irregularly and late at night, produce sickness and impair scholarship, perhaps more than any other single cause. Unless parents and friends heed this remark, we shall be obliged to make the reception of such boxes and parcels by the pupils ground for animadversion.” – Connecticut Literary Institution 1870-71 catalog, quoted in “College Girls” by Lynn Peril

After several failed attempts to found a women’s college in Baltimore, the Baltimore Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church finally succeeded in 1885. The main building on St. Paul Street was constructed to harmonize architecturally with the First Church (now Lovely Lane Methodist.)

According to the 1905 book “The College Girl In America And The Institutions Which Make Her What She Is,” the school’s co-founder Dr. John F. Goucher did not hold many other women’s’ colleges in high regard. His philosophy was paraphrased: “The ordinary girls’ college turns out… an occasional scholar, some pedants, many teachers, and a few – a very few – all-around girls… Every effort is made at this college to develop appreciation, ripe culture, and womanliness.”

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Goucher College & Lovely Lane Methodist Church, Goucher College Library 

Nonetheless, sources indicate that life at the “Women’s College of Baltimore City” was not too different than at other women’s colleges. “The History of Goucher College” by Anna Knipp and Thaddeus P. Thomas describes rigorous academics. At 659 pages, Knipp and Thomas’ 1939 history book IS rigorous academics. One aspect that I grasped before dozing off was that the school had a special focus on physical fitness.

Considerations for student health at women’s colleges was not entirely out of the ordinary. Wellesley College founder Henry Durant believed that health was critical to learning, stating that “pies, lies, and doughnuts should never have a place at Wellesley College.”

Out of context, this sounds a like a bizarre fixation, but in fact, snacking and junk food had been the secret scourge of women’s colleges from the beginning. Some schools implemented rules that barred families from sending foods. This only resulted in clandestine dormitory makeshift meals known as “spreads.”

Often made in a chafing dish, with tools on hand (think nail files and powder boxes), the late-night meals became a central part of social life in women’s colleges at the beginning of the 20th century. In a 1906 article in Ladies Home Journal, called “Christmas Pranks of College Girls,” one student reported that “spreads were forbidden and the halls were vigorously patrolled for the suppression of them.”

Fudge is by far the most famous and enduring result of dormitory snacking, and a popular origin story credits the candy to Vassar students.

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College Cookery, 1912 by H.A.B. 

 Fudge was far from the only food served up – it wasn’t even the only candy. In “College Cookery,” a 1912 cookbook printed in Baltimore, there are six recipes for chocolate fudge, as well as recipes for taffy, toasted marshmallows, sandwiches, Welsh Rarebit (a popular chafing dish item), as well as several recipes “brought from Italy by a member of Goucher College.” Of these recipes from Italy, I opted to try the risotto.

“College Cookery” was compiled by Harriet A. Blogg from Norfolk VA. Blogg’s date of birth varies wildly across censuses, but her family moved to Baltimore in the late 1800s. Her father Edward N. S. Blogg was a preacher from Germany and her mother Charlotte Collins Thayer hailed from the large Massachusetts family of Colonel Collins Thayer. The family became prominent in Baltimore. From their home base on 2506 St. Paul Street, the Bloggs engaged and entertained doctors and Peabody Professors, women’s college clubs and charitable organizations. Harriet’s brother Percy T. Blogg was a “sportsman, naturalist, essayist, and poet” according to his 1947 Baltimore Sun obituary. Another brother, Edward R. F. Blogg, was a bookseller whose frequent business travels and illnesses were regularly reported in the Baltimore Sun society pages.

Harriet and her sister Minnie were both librarians. Minnie was one of the first librarians for the Johns Hopkins Hospital Library which became the Welch Medical Library in 1929. She worked with doctors to compile bibliographies for their publications. After she retired in 1935, she volunteered at the Johns Hopkins Nurses Home Library until shortly before her death in 1959.

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Miss H.A. Blogg’s second place crab recipe in the Sun, 1911

As for Harriet, she was a librarian for Goucher from 1896-1917, and a correspondent for the Baltimore Sun. She too was involved with medical research work. At Goucher, she founded the Press Club in 1898. According to her 1935 obituary, she was “well known in literary circles.”

As the publication of a cookbook glorifying College Cookery might tip you off, late night dormitory snack-parties eventually became an accepted, even sanctioned, part of college life. As Lynn Peril wrote in “College Girls”: “The 1947 edition of Stephens College’s Within the Ivy student handbook called the spread ‘one of the joys of college life’ proving without a doubt that its authority-flouting nature was deader than a doorknob.

Needless to say, this coincided with the slow demise of the tradition. Next Friday, when I’m watching all the co-eds at the liquor store conceal their purchases deep inside backpacks, part of me will wish that their rule-flouting could ever be so beneficial to humanity, to popularize something like fudge.

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Recipe:

RISOTTO (ITALIAN RICE)
(Brought from Italy by member of Goucher College)

  • ½ cup rice
  • 1 onion
  • 2 tablespoonfuls Grated Cheese (Parmesan)  
  • 1 qt. Beef stock—(may be beef extract)
  • Zaferano, pinch (may be purchased at Itl. shop)*

Chop onion and brown in butter. Add rice dry
(don’t wash it), and cook until brown. Add beef
stock and boil until soft. Add part of cheese and
the powder. Serve with remainder of cheese on
top. This is delicious.

Recipe from “College Cookery”, 1912, compiled by H.A.B.

*I had to look this up. It’s saffron!

Much of the research for this post came from “College Girls” by Lynn Peril. Peril’s “Mystery Date” zine and her books were some of my favorites in the early 2000s, when I was just dipping my toe into “history” as anything other than classroom drudgery. I really enjoyed revisiting “College Girls.”

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Potato Salad, Thomasina Falcon, “The Soul Food Cook Book,” Western High School

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“Western High May Become Coeducational Negro School,” the 1954 Baltimore Sun Headline read. Hand-wringing about school desegregation was splashed throughout the pages of the Sun that year. The issue that brought Western High to the front line of the fight was its status as an all-girls school. If the quality of education was unique in white single-sex institutions, then “separate but equal” was subject to question. The NAACP was challenging Baltimore Polytechnic Institute’s unique engineering program on similar grounds.

Enrollment had been dropping at Western, as its surrounding West Baltimore neighborhood became populated with black families whose daughters were barred from the school. Elizabeth T. Meijer of the Baltimore Urban League suggested the obvious solution – integrate the school. She wrote to the Sun that Baltimore was in a position to “not only show the U.S.A. but the whole world… that we not only preach but practice democracy.” Making Western High School an integrated girls’ school was not apparently seriously considered by the school board. There was talk of closing the school altogether.

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The Soul Food Cook Book, 1971, Western High School

Ultimately it was decided that the school would relocate to the old City College location at Howard and Centre Streets. Frederick Douglass High School moved into Western’s old location at Gwynns Falls Road.

Thankfully, not everyone was satisfied with this outcome. In June 1953, Eugene D. Byrd wrote a passionate letter to the Sun chastising the school board for hiding behind “ancient views… of persons who cannot understand that God is Love and all mankind is the same in His sight.”

A few years later, a 1956 Sun report declared that the public had accepted the integration of schools, despite a flurry of agitator picketing and student absenteeism in September. By the 1960s, Western High School yearbooks exhibited an integrated student population, united by a common penchant for bouffant hair shellacked meticulously skyward.

Western High School remains a girls’ school to this day; the oldest public all-girls school in the United States (Eastern having gone coed in the early 80s.)

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1970 Western High School yearbook, “Westward Ho!”

In 1971, Mrs. Sarah Cooper’s senior English class found out that the teacher was unfamiliar with soul food. The girls began to bring in dishes for Mrs. Cooper to enjoy. Eventually, the students even commandeered the home economics room, inviting the principal and vice principal to dine. “You couldn’t miss what was going on in that room,” said Cooper, “The whole school smelled of soul food.”

With the help of guidance counselor Maisie Rea, the social exchange became a project – the “Soul Food Cookbook.” Rea later explained to Baltimore Sun reporter Jane Howard: “There is no mild tasting soul food. It is more in the way food is seasoned that distinguishes it… we can fix the same dish but mine wouldn’t taste like yours.” Rea’s recipe for kidney stew is included in the book. “People of today rarely have time for the long, slow processes that were responsible for the tasty stews… of earlier days,” she wrote. “Members of my family, however, have held on to some of our traditional recipes.”

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The Soul Food Cook Book, 1971, Western High School

The book contains recipes for cracklin’ cornbread, hog maws and chit’lins, black-eyed peas, and coconut pie, along with less famous dishes like peach upside-down cake and “caramel eggnog.”

This potato salad recipe was contributed to the book by Thomasina Falcon. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find much about her although I believe she was originally from Anson County North Carolina. She passed away in 1986.

In addition to the recipes, the “Soul Food Cookbook” is peppered with poetry and personal stories about family and food. Mrs. Beulah Taylor wrote that her recipe for cabbage with fatback drippings had been “handed down from generation to generation… as many times as [the] recipe has been handed down, it still tastes good every time.”

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Recipe:

  • 12 medium white potatoes, diced
  • 2 diced onions
  • 1.5 stalks diced celery
  • 2 carrots, shredded
  • 6 diced pickles
  • 1.5 Tablespoons mustard
  • 2.5 Teaspoons celery seed
  • 4 Tablespoons mayonnaise
  • 2 Tablespoons salt
  • 1 Teaspoon pepper
  • 2 Teaspoons sugar
  • 1 Teaspoons vinegar
  • 2 Teaspoons pickle juice
  • 1 green pepper

“Bring potatoes to boil about 20 minutes until soft, but not too soft. Place potatoes in drainer and then put in refrigerator, after all the water is drained out. While potatoes are cooking, cut up onions, celery, carrots, pickles, and green pepper. Let potatoes stay in the refrigerator for about 1 hour or until cold. Put onions, celery, pickles, carrots and green pepper in the refrigerator.Take out potatoes, cut them into cubes, and put them in large mixing bowl. Then add your onions, celery, and pickles carrots and green pepper to potatoes and mix lightly. Next add celery seed, sugar, salt, pepper, and pickle juice and mix together. Then add mayonnaise (or Miracle Whip) and mustard and mix and stir together lightly. Add your vinegar a little at a time and mix.After salad is ready, put it back in the refrigerator so that potatoes can absorb seasonings until you are ready to serve. Garnish potato salad with lettuce, tomatoes, and radishes.”

Recipe from The Soul Food Cook Book, 1971, Western High School, found at the Enoch Pratt Free Library

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the last of my family pickles made this salad extra special IMHO

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Kneeling in the center with the black shirt and white vest is a “T. Falcon,” 1970 Western High yearbook

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