Vinegar Candy, The Oriole Cookbook

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Vinegar is one of those culinary facts of life that existed for thousands of years before being truly understood. (Some probiotics enthusiasts might say that we still don’t truly understand vinegar.) With the ability to sterilize, preserve, and add flavor, vinegar has been made all over the world with as many source ingredients as can be imagined. Of these, the gold standard at the turn of the 20th century was Apple Cider Vinegar, especially in Maryland.

Home-made vinegar was certainly a simple option – there are instructions in Mary Lloyd Tyson’s 1870 “Queen of the Kitchen” for making vinegar with cider, fermented preserves, whiskey, and molasses. “This is an excellent receipt.”

Newspapers of the time offered similar instructions. They also printed many questions and theories on vinegar. “What makes vinegar sharp?” Does more surface area make better vinegar? Are vinegar eels good or bad for the flavor of the vinegar?

Flavor and sharpness aside, these were no trivial matters. With food poisoning so prevalent, the acidity and purity of vinegar could be a matter of life & death.

The Cecil Whig in Elkton reported in 1872 that “probably not one-half of what is sold as cider-vinegar ever had its origin in an apple tree.”

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Calvert Fruit Salad / Broccoli Puff

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Occasionally someone will ask about weird foods I’ve tried in the name of history. Beef stuffed with oysters or anchovy may seem weird to some people. Perhaps peanut-pickle sandwich filling is a curiosity from another time.

Honestly, I tend to believe that the food we have access to now is weirder than anything found in history. For centuries, we more or less had a finite number of ingredients to combine in different ways, and then, suddenly: the wonders of chemistry.

My aunt gave me a late 1970′s community cookbook from Calvert County. The book features a stock cover I’ve seen on other cookbooks, with a cutesey illustration of a child and the title “Butter ‘n Love Recipes.” The cover and name are a little odd to me so it’s all the more confusing that this was not just a one off but a popular offering by the publishing company.

The Calvert County Mental Health Association gave their version of this book the subtitle “Mind Over Batter.” The cookbook committee’s stated purpose was to raise money for improved treatment and prevention of mental illness, awareness about the social stigma, and the general promotion of mental health.

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I was surprised to find a page dedicated to Southern Maryland Stuffed Ham in a 1970′s cookbook, much less one from Calvert County. Also included are some other heritage recipes like a Michigan pasty, and Finnish Pannukakku.

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Apples En Surprise, L. Gertrude MacKay

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The fame of the Maryland apple is perhaps less known at home than in distant markets. The Maryland apple has never figured to any great extent in the lobster palaces in the Broadway section in New York at $1 per apple. It is a good apple, nevertheless.” – The Baltimore Sun, 1911

A Baltimore fruit merchant, U. Grant Border, posed a fascinating question in 1913: “Can King Apple be so advertised as to increase the consumption from year to year sufficiently to provide a profitable market for the great and steadily-increasing crops?” He believed that the answer was yes, and started a plan to form a sort of fund for apple-farmers to pool their money for national advertising campaigns.

“An apple a day keeps the doctor away” had been an old Welsh adage for a few decades by that time. Originally it has the somewhat more spiteful wording “eat an apple on going to bed, and you’ll keep the doctor from earning his bread.”

Grant, now a bona-fide “ad man,” continued to tout the health benefits of the apple, but he took it a step beyond. In 1912 he was quoted in many newspapers declaring that women should eat apples “morning, noon and night” to make their complexions more beautiful.

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Tonoloway Mountain apple orchard, 1948 by A. Aubrey Bodine

His organization, the International Apple Shippers Association, declared October 31st “Apple Day.” When that wasn’t good enough, they dedicated an entire Apple Week. The Baltimore Fruit Producers’ Association held an event where they gave away 1000 apples. In two of the apples was a $5 gold piece. (That’s about $75 nowadays.)

Meanwhile, across the country, Lucy Gertrude MacKay was also making a career of apples. She had been conducting demonstrations on “apple cookery” since the early 1900s.

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