When I finally took a stab at baking the Shady Side specialty Hard Jelly Cake, I nervously wondered how my reputation would fare.
Treading in the steps of experts is always a setup for embarrassment. If my beaten biscuit experience taught me anything, it’s that the flame-keepers of some of our state’s more forgotten foods tend to take their responsibility seriously. When my attempt cast disgrace on the reputation of beaten biscuits, seasoned bakers did not hold back criticism.
As I explored the history and culture of Hard Jelly Cake, one of Maryland’s more obscure traditions, I found a similar wellspring of passion.
Mrs. Edgar Linton’s recipe in the 1966 cookbook “Maryland’s Way” is the only recipe for it in my database so far. “This is an old southern Maryland receipt,” wrote Linton, “popular at Christmas time. A Shady Side specialty, it keeps very well and looks festive when sliced thin.”
With only Linton’s recipe to go on, I couldn’t really envision what the cake was meant to taste and feel like. A few years ago, my aunt from Shady Side purchased one from Elaine Catterton. Catterton is one of the few bakers carrying on the tradition, making cakes for raffle/sale around the holidays.
The wax paper wrapping and red string were clearly part of the experience of Hard Jelly Cake. The cookie-like layers were infused with the flavor of grape jelly. The cake was not like any cake I’d ever had before.
Elaine Catterton’s Hard Jelly Cake