Crab Cakes & Career Girl’s Delight, a tribute to Virginia Roeder

I once referred to Virginia Roeder as “Baltimore’s own Martha Stewart.” The statement is a little out of character for me, but I wanted to convey my impression of Roeder’s business savvy, the way her “immaculate home” was described in the Sun, her reputation for culinary acumen, and the sense that Roeder was one of those people who seem to have access to extra hours in the day to do more while the rest of us are sleeping.

If I had known then that the Baltimore Sun would eventually quote me in Roeder’s obituary, I might have been more careful with my words.

At the time of her passing, she was Virginia Cobb. She also used the last name Wenger somewhere in between. She was preceded in death by her daughter Mimi Vaughan in 2024. Mimi was a local figure in her own right and a member of the Associated Black Charities board. Another daughter, Anne Roeder Kern of Oklahoma, survives Virginia, along with seven grand-children.

Roeder was born Virginia Voigt in Oklahoma in 1927 and went into education, as her mother had done before her. Virginia came to Baltimore and earned a Masters’ and Doctoral degree from Johns Hopkins. She also earned credentials as a foremost expert in Maryland food.

From her annual exasperated columns in response to Peach Cake recipe requests, to her crab cake recipe that circulates to this day, Roeder left her mark on our regional cuisine during a time when “Maryland Cooking” was transitioning from a prestigious offering at restaurants and hotels, to the purview of the home kitchens that would keep tradition alive. In the hands of her capable home-economics background, many regional traditions were transcribed and standardized for posterity.

After retiring as Deputy Superintendent of Baltimore City Public Schools, she worked in banking, real-estate and travel agencies – and she maintained her image of a mid-century housewife, always bedecked in a string of pearls, ready to whip up a weeknight dinner or an impressive spread for company.

Roeders’ recipes live on in two booklets printed by the Evening Sun around 1960, “Fun with Food” and “Fun with Sea Food.” It wasn’t just about feeding the family and impressing guests – it should be fun.

I opted to try a “fun” recipe whose name reminded me of the lady herself. Entitled “Career Girl’s Delight,” the recipe is an odd sort of trifle made with fig newtons, bananas, pineapple, marshmallows and whipped cream.

I also made the legendary crab cake. My own copy of “Fun With Sea Food” has the word “excellent” written beside the simple recipe. I sometimes see it circulate online – even images of the cookbook page that aren’t stolen from my website (how refreshing!)

There’s not much to say about the crab cake recipe. It’s simple and perfect. Roeder knew how to do it. I actually planned to make mine with ‘special’ but received lump (at less than half the cost! score!) which made it harder to form cakes. The resulting photos aren’t much to look at but suffice it to say we had a rare treat for a weeknight dinner.

When I found out about her having passed away on November 28th, I knew I had to scramble together a tribute. So here it is. May she rest in peace and be remembered. I have little doubt this will not be the last time I mention her and her recipes.

It’s a little sad to think that I will never meet Virginia Cobb, or better yet – thank her for all she has done for this website and for Maryland food.

Recipes: