Custard Pumpkin Pie, Helen Cotter

Gourmet plated dessert with golden-brown pie slice and decorative pastry curl on gray plate with artistic plating

It’s almost hard to believe that the Sun published “My Favorite Recipe” in the same decade as Virginia Roeder’s “Fun with Sea Food.”

As much as I respect Roeder and her recipes, Helen Henry’s 1960s “My Favorite Recipe” column in the Sunday Sun was a welcome departure from Maryland’s long-unchanging recipe oeuvre.

Educator and librarian Mary Carter Smith shared a recipe for a peanut-coated chicken from Sierra Leone.

Carol Zapata, whose husband was a surgeon from Peru, offered up a recipe for “Cebiche” made using rockfish from the Chesapeake.

There was plenty of room for crab cakes, stuffed ham, and Thanksgiving roast goose, but the overall variety of recipes was far more representative of the dishes made in Maryland homes – and the variety we take for granted today.

Vintage recipe collection featuring African chicken dish, Italian fish stew, persimmon pudding, and crusty bread with food contributors
“My Favorite Recipe” columns from the Sunday Sun Magazine. Helen Henry top center.

Whether it was long-cherished family traditions like Eleni Venetoulis’ olive bread (eliopita) from Cyprus, or the “Chinese Firepot” recreated in Dr. John Woytowitz’s Baltimore kitchen after a visit to Hong Kong, the recipes shared in “My Favorite Recipe” marked a change from the endlessly regurgitated and slightly-tweaked deviled crab and peach cake recipes that the newspaper had printed for decades.

Around 1969, the best of the column was collected into a book of 52 recipes.

In addition to choosing one of the least interesting recipes to make, I managed to forget about it for months. What we have here is a pumpkin pie recipe, in late January. The recipe was contributed by Helen Mary Cotter née Schmit, a dietician whose husband Dr. Edward F. Cotter was a medical instructor and WW II veteran. They passed away in 1996 and 1997, respectively.

The crust recipe, Helen explained in the book/column, came from her mother, Mrs. William Schmit. “She had a reputation for pastries in my home town, Waterman, S.D.,” Cotter explained. The custard filling came from her mother in law, Mrs. Edward L. Cotter.

Vintage newspaper recipe columns featuring three dishes: Stuffed Ham for Easter, Bami from Indonesia, and Rouladen Pirogi from Berlin Blockade era

Cheap used copies of the “My Favorite Recipe” book can be found online. There is also a copy at the Pratt Library which can be checked out. Be warned: there are a few recipes that might be a little too exotic… namely a crab soup with cabbage in it, and a salad made with raspberry jello, tabasco sauce, tomatoes and horseradish.

Ingredients and tablet with recipe displayed on counter including eggs, pumpkin, spices, lard, milk, and cooking oil

Filling:

  • 4 eggs
  • 1 Teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1 Teaspoon nutmeg
  • .25 Teaspoon ginger
  • .125 scant Teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1 Cup white or light brown sugar
  • .5 Teaspoon salt
  • 1.5 Cup (if fresh pumpkin is used, drain dry) pumpkin
  • 1.75 Cup scalded milk
  • 4 Tablespoon good whiskey “at the last”

Crust:

  • .75 Teaspoon fine salt
  • .666 Cup fresh country (use more if vegetable shortening) lard
  • 4 or 5 (this varies with the flour used) Tablespoon ice water water

Sift the salt into the sifted flour. Work 2/3 cup lard into the flour until it has the consistency of coarse cornmeal. Add 2 tablespoons ice water and blend with a fork. Add another tablespoon of ice water and blend again. Finally, add 1 or 2 tablespoons more ice water, as needed, to make a tender, soft, moist ball of dough. Sprinkle lightly with flour and work very quickly into a tender yet firm ball.

Place 3/4 of the ball of dough on the center of a lightly floured board. (Remainder of dough may be used for tarts or decorations.) Roll out fairly thin. Lift pastry gently into pie pan. “If you have measured accurately and worked quickly, this is not difficult to do.” Trim dough 1/2 inch outside the edge of pie pan. Make a fluted edge, keeping tall enough to contain filling. Stir pumpkin filling thoroughly and pour into shell. Bake 10 minutes at 425 degrees, then 350 degrees for 1 hour. Serve with whipped cream if desired.

Recipe adapted from “My Favorite Recipe: A Collection of Favorite Recipes by Marylanders”, compiled by Helen Henry

Flour mixture in stainless steel bowl with pastry cutter for baking preparation
Baking ingredients setup with breadcrumbs in purple bowl, eggs in green bowl, and spices in white dish on wooden surface
Yellow squash being drained through a fine mesh strainer into a white bowl
Green bowl with mixed batter and whisk on wooden surface during baking preparation
Unbaked pie with fluted crimped edge crust and tan filling in ceramic pie dish on wooden surface
Homemade pumpkin pie in cardboard box with fluted crust edge and golden filling on wooden surface
Slice of pumpkin pie with pastry crust on white plate with decorative line garnish

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