Fricassee of Rabbit, Mrs. B.C. Howard

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Fricassee or fricassée /ˈfrɪkəs/[1] is a method of cooking meat in which it is cut up, sautéed and braised, and served with its sauce, traditionally a white sauce.” (Wikipedia)

In the recipe for Pizza Chicken I introduced burgersub’s chicken allergy. This allergy also includes turkey and other fowl. As a result of it, rabbit has become the other white meat of our household.

If, like us, you insist upon eating meat, rabbit is a somewhat more sustainable option than the alternatives. And if, unlike us, you care about fats or health or whatever, rabbit is so low in fat that one could die from eating it.
I wouldn’t say I’m an expert exactly. Lexington Market has several stands that sell rabbit but they all peddle the same frozen rabbits, probably from the same source, all at the same cost.

They get the job done.

By far, my preferred treatment of rabbit is to put it in the slow-cooker, whole, with some oil, seasonings and liquid and let it go for several hours.
The result is that the meat comes right off the bone. When dealing with rabbit, this advantage can not be overstated.

In fact, if I were to make this fricassee again, I would probably complete the whole first step in the slow cooker. Perhaps use stock instead of dealing with the onion and parsley. Also I would not cut the bacon into tiny bits that are impossible to deal with.

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This fricassee recipe came from “Fifty Years in a Maryland Kitchen” by Mrs. Benjamin Chew Howard, aka Jane Gilmor.

Here in Baltimore, the name speaks for itself.

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Jane Grant Gilmor Howard by Thomas Sully

This popular classic Maryland cookbook was printed and reprinted over the years, with a revised “for modern times” edition coming out some time in the 1940s. THAT version was reprinted by Dover in the 1980s. However, I hardly need editor Florence Brobeck telling ME to cut back on butter. Plus that edition leaves out crucial recipes such as instructions to heal a “drooping canary” and “how to clean polished Mahogany”. Mrs. Howard was a regular Heloise. 

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1913 Edition of Fifty Years in a Maryland Kitchen

Fifty Years in a Maryland Kitchen is sure to make regular appearances on this website. Call me up if you need help with a drooping canary.

Recipe:

  • 1 young rabbit
  • 1 onion cut in two slices
  • 2 cloves
  • a little mace
  • parsley
  • .25 Lb streaked bacon, cut into dice
  • water
  • 20 button onions
  • 2 oz butter
  • 1 Tablespoon flour

Cut a young rabbit into neat joints and lay it in lukewarm water to draw put the blood then drain it and put it into a stew pan with a large onion cut into slices two cloves a little mace parsley and a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon cut into dice. Cover all with water and let it simmer twenty minutes keeping it well skimmed. Then pass the stock through a sieve into a dish and take out the pieces of rabbit and bacon. In another stew pan have ready two ounces of butter mixed with a good table spoonful of flour moisten with the stock and stir over the fire until boiling. Then trim the rabbit nicely and put it with the bacon and twenty button onions into the sauce and let it simmer until the onions are tender. Skim off all the fat. Then pour in a gill of cream into which the yolks of two eggs have been mixed. Leave it on the fire until it thickens but do not let it boil Take out the rabbit arrange it nicely on a dish pour the sauce over it and serve

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This step may have been unnecessary with my thawed rabbit of unknown age.

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Fun fact: briefly soaking garlic or small onions like these makes quick work of removing their skins

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When in doubt use a thermometer to keep from scrambling those eggs

Hassle aside, this was a tasty dinner. Went great with some not-period-appropriate garlic naan.

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Shad season continues on Old Line Plate

If the obsession baffles you then maybe I haven’t emphasized the importance of Shad but it is in fact our “founding fish.”

I also want to give a shout out to Paul Greenberg whose article on getting over it and using whole fish for economy and environment was handed to me by my mother early last summer. (Shout out to my mom, too!)

I’d handled a whole fish or two before then but I’m trying to make a more concerted effort to dive in, use the whole thing.. fish on day one, fish salad later, stock with the bones.. pungent compost later..

I enlisted the aid of my friend Abbsworth for these quality photos, they actually aren’t as grody as I expected.

You can expect at least two more shad-related posts before the season is out..

Pizza Chicken, Mrs. William Strieber

Well let me preface this with some (ugh) personal facts.

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I live with this fellow burgersub. He is allergic to chicken.

That is weird, right?

But I made this recipe as a family meal so I got some fake chicken patties and went for it, ‘his and hers.’

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So anyway, Maryland is all like ‘crabs oysters blah blah blah’…

But in truth, as of the last century, Maryland has distinguished itself with a robust poultry industry.

(It may be that same poultry industry had an effect on our once-famous seafood industry…)

Up until this year, the big public event of the MAryland (and DELaware, and VirginiA) poultry industry was the annual Delmarva Chicken festival.

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According to the source:

“The National Chicken Cooking Contest was the first of the big national food contests having been started in 1949. Delmarva poultry industry people originated it as a highlight for the Delmarva Chicken Festival that year. It was devised as a replacement for a then ensuing national contest to develop a better breed of chicken.

In the early years, participants were just from the tri-state area. Later, the entire northeast.. became involved. Now, interest in the Contest has expanded until it has become an important chicken promotion for all broiler producing areas throughout the United States.”

“Pizza Chicken” represented Maryland in the 1971 cooking contest, whose winners by state were published in the annual booklet of recipes (also containing prize-winning recipes from previous contests.)

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According to the bio of contestant Mrs. William R. Strieber aka Shirley, she “cooks to please her family” and combined their loves of pizza and chicken. Shirley is not a Maryland native; she was from Iowa, her husband a vet with the USDA. “Hobbies include cooking, reading, bicycling, gardening and bird-watching.” I wrote a letter to Shirley in AZ but she passed away on March 21, 2015. She was 88 years old.

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This is 1971 but the booklet still has a pretty strong mid-century vibe. For the most part the cooks are self-described home-makers, although there are a few men and teens as well.

The pizza craze is reflected in a handful of other recipes, as is a lot of pineapple for “exotic appeal,” and a lot of smothering chicken in some special sauce and baking it.

Shirley did not take home the first prize – that honor went to Norma Young of Arkansas.

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Norma Young, Baltimore Sun Photo. I am sorry I can’t buy these but YOU can!

Still, the all-expenses-paid trip to Ocean City and the thrill of competition in an era before the bevy of miserable competitive cooking shows had to be a memorable experience.

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Shirley Strieber, Baltimore Sun Photo

Somewhere between 1950 and 1971, the requirement to use some Mazola Corn Oil was added. I used some other kind of oil.. I also used chicken breasts because a broiler-fryer seemed like a messy hassle to eat.

Recipe:

  •     1 chicken, broiler-fryer
  •     1 Teaspoon salt
  •     .125 Teaspoon black pepper
  •     .25 Cup Mazola corn oil
  •     10.5 oz pizza sauce
  •     1/3 Cup water
  •     2 Tablespoon grated Parmesan Cheese
  •     1 medium onion, sliced
  •     1 green pepper,  cut into rings
  •     4 thin slices Mozzarella cheese

Sprinkle chicken pieces with salt and pepper. Heat oil in large skillet; add chicken and cook until brown on all sides. Place browned chicken in a medium shallow baking pan (about 13 x 9 x 2 inches). Combine pizza sauce, water and Parmesan cheese; pour over chicken. Add onion and green pepper rings. Cover and bake in 350°F (moderate) oven 45 minutes. Remove cover and place cheese slices on top. Return to oven for 15 minutes or until chicken is tender and cheese is melted. Makes 4 servings.  

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2014 was the last ever Delmarva Chicken Festival, but we will soon revisit the festival, their super-large gigantic frying pan, the booklets of chicken recipes, and other winners including a beloved Baltimore character.

Until then let us gaze upon fellow 1971 contestant Beverly Chiles, who represented her home state in cooking as well as in hairdo.

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Crab Flake Maryland, Charles Bitterli, Hotel Emerson

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I had some illustrious company and wanted to serve a classy meal. Where better to take cues from than the illustrious Hotel Emerson.

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Hotel Emerson by Aubrey Bodine @ MD Historical Society

The hotel was the brainchild of Capt. Isaac Emerson, the man behind Bromo-Seltzer and its parent company, the Emerson Drug Co…the 220-foot-high, 17-story building at the corner of Baltimore and Calvert streets.. opened its doors a quick 20 months later….

And long before the current fashion for local ingredients, the Chesapeake Room offered a traditional Maryland-themed menu made from products raised on Capt. Emerson’s Green Spring Valley estate, Brooklandwood (now the home of St. Paul School for Boys). The hotel’s milk and cream came from Brooklandwood’s herd of Guernsey and Jersey cows, and the estate also produced chicken and eggs, as well as lettuces, tomatoes and other vegetables. The hotel even bottled its own water from a spring near Brooklandwood.Mary Zajac

Please read the article for more on how the Emerson’s history is both illustrious and horrific.

In its later years, the Emerson was known for its “Hawaiian Room,” a seemingly immersive tiki bar. A lot of ephemera has been collected on this facebook page.

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Drink menu from the Emerson’s Hawaiian Room.

Because our city’s self-loathing dates back further than I care to think about, the building was razed in 1971. There is a great web 1.0 site showing many of our lost hotels, as well as some still standing, at kilduffs.com.

This recipe was provided to Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland by “Chef de Cuisine” Charles Bitterli. According to a trade publication called “The Alarm Clock”:

Mr Charles Bitterli the chef of The Emerson Hotel Baltimore Maryland was born in Switzerland. The years since 1904 have been a steady advance in his chosen profession. The first five years were spent in Swiss hotels and famous eating houses one year was spent in Paris at the Regina Hotel. ln order to gain the experience necessary for the goal in view Mr Bitterli was associated with the Amstel Hotel, Amsterdam; Royal Pavilion, Folkstone, England; Hotel dos Estrangeiros Rio de Janiero and The Exhibition Restaurant in Berne.

Mr. Bitterli arrived in New York City in 1915 and began his duties at the Hotel Astor. Some of the other well known houses with which he was later affiliated were Sherman Hotel, Chicago; Adolphus Hotel, Dallas, Texas; Hammel’s Restaurant, Miller’s Cafeteria, Motor Square Hotel and Chamber of Commerce all in Pittsburgh. Chef Bitterli shouldered his new responsibilities at the Emerson Hotel in September of this year and is well liked not only for the good food that leaves his department but also for his optimism and his sense of humor.

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Bitterli in “The Alarm Clock,” “published monthly in the interests of the staff of Horwath and Horwath”

Searching google and facebook turns up possible relatives of Bitterli but I was unable to successfully contact anyone for more information.

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This recipe from Bitterli appears on a New York Post page alongside diet and health tips from celebrities such as Dorthea Dix.

Crab being woefully out of season, I used this pricey and possibly shady meat from Garland Fulcher Seafood of North Carolina. I picked many shell bits from it. Not a huge deal but all in all the price, unfamiliar source and quality should serve as a cautionary tale to mind the seasons.

I made the mistake of using salted butter AND using the generous recommended quantity of a half ounce of salt so of course that was a disservice to the crab meat I’d paid so dearly for.

This method of serving something in a cream sauce, often in a chafing dish, was very common of hotels and railroads at the time and it of course always turns out a tasty salty creamy indulgence, apparently to the delight of travelers. I served it over asparagus on a crepe to our guests. Much water was consumed. I used the leftovers to make a less-salty cream of crab soup later.

  • 1    Lb    lump crab flake
  • 1    Pint milk, scalded
  • .5    Pint     cream
  • .25    Lb unsalted butter
  • .25    oz salt
  • 1    pinch cayenne pepper
  • 1    glass sherry
  • 2    Tablespoons flour
  • toast

Melt half the butter in saucepan, add the flour and make the cream sauce with the heated milk, set aside to keep it hot. Heat the rest of the butter in a saucepan, add the crab meat and fry a little, trying not to break up the lumps. Add salt, pepper, cream sauce and cream. Let boil for two of three minutes, then add  the sherry and mix well. Make sure that it doesn’t boil. Serve very hot in chafing dish with toast.

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Recipe Adapted from “Eat, Drunk & Be Merry in Maryland”

Easter in Maryland

My first inklings of Maryland’s varied Easter traditions came from the Southern Heritage Cookbook Library. A menu for a “Southern Maryland Easter Dinner” featured Southern Maryland Stuffed Ham, Creamed Red Potatoes, Baked Tomato Halves, Frilly Deviled Eggs, Biscuits Supreme and Cardinal Pudding. It features this apocryphal account of Stuffed Ham:

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Of course as with many such things, Southern Maryland stuffed ham has a likely slave origin. Stuffed Ham was new to me but as I sampled the various offerings of Raleys, Murphy’s, WJ Dent and other local purveyors, it fast became a favorite. Much has been written about stuffed ham, with more to come, and it will certainly be revisited on Old Line Plate (i hope!).

As fats get eaten up for Lent you will find an array of delicious doughnuts hit the scene. Recipes for fasnachts appear in several old Maryland cookbooks, sometimes under varied names like “fost nock”, or fossnock. Bafflingly, fasnachts go by the name of “Kinkling” in the Frederick area. Not bafflingly, they receive much fanfare.

Baltimore’s large Eastern European population offered contributions and variations on Easter Season menu. Burgersub introduced me to Pączki, another kind of doughnut, for sale in Baltimore. You just have to know where to look.

“The cry of “Who’s got an egg?” would bring youngsters out of their homes, ready to do battle with hard-boiled eggs dyed in shades of blue and pink and yellow.
The game, which today endures around Easter tables in certain families, worked like this:
One kid wrapped a fist around his egg, leaving only the point exposed through a hole between his thumb and index finger. The challenger used the point of his egg to aggressively tap his foe’s egg until one of the shells cracked. The eggs were then turned over and the game repeated with the butt end of the eggs.
The stronger egg would usually win at both ends, and the owner of the weaker egg would forfeit the ovum that had failed him. If there was a draw, the uncracked point would battle the uncracked butt. The loser surrendered his egg.
‘Picking eggs was a big thing around the neighborhoods, I don’t really know where it started,’ said Gene DeCarlo Sr., 68, who keeps the tradition alive in Highlandtown with his grandchildren. ‘You’ve got to remember, in them days eggs weren’t as plentiful as they are now. You won a hard-boiled egg from another kid – that was something good to eat.’
Old-timers remember the sight of champions running the alleys with the pockets of their Easter Sunday trousers bulging with eggs.
‘I think picking eggs was just something they did around Baltimore,’ said Dorothy Kraft, 68, who grew up on Decker Avenue. ‘I never heard of out-of-towners doing it.’
For generations it was part of local Easter along with cakes that looked like chickens and lumps of butter shaped like lambs; pre-dawn street processions with Easter lilies; taking baskets of food to church to be blessed; boys chasing girls on Easter Monday – known to some as “dingus day” – to beat them on the legs with switches; sunrise services at Memorial Stadium; and the annual Easter parades along Charles Street and Pennsylvania Avenue.”

Good Eggs And Nice Memories Of Easter (Baltimore Sun)

There’s a lot more to Maryland than Catholicism and a lot more Easter traditions to look into but its kind of hard to tear myself away from hams and doughnuts.

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Southern Maryland Easter Dinner. Images: Southern Heritage Cookbook Library

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