Slow-Cooker Sauerbraten, Haussner’s Style

November is upon us, and although the autumnal comforts of the past few posts (biscuits, pies, and cornbread) have been pleasant, I thought I’d better branch out, lest I lose my *edge*. For this week’s installment, I turned to the news for inspiration.

The fate of the building once occupied by the famed Haussner’s restaurant has been uncertain for a decade now.  It has stood vacant, going through numerous sales and auctions while the surrounding neighborhood of Highlandtown slowly transforms around it. Last month it was finally announced that the building would be demolished to make way for an apartment building.

Haussner’s Menu, 1967, New York Public Library

While I did fortunately have the chance to visit Eichenkranz, the city’s last remaining German restaurant, before it closed this past May, I had never been to Haussners. For the many who have, there has been no shortage of nostalgia stirred as a result of the announcement.

Haussner’s was more than German food. Haussner’s was known for their crab cakes, their beloved strawberry pie, and above all, their fine art collection.

Collected by the owner’s wife, Frances Wilke Haussner over the course of 73 years, the collection sold for ten million dollars after the restaurant’s closing.

Haussner’s interior, Bill McAllen

“Master chef” William Henry Haussner opened the restaurant in 1926 upon emigrating from Germany. It is said that their novel-length menu boasted 112 entrees. William Haussner passed away in 1963 but the restaurant continued for several decades under Mrs. Hausner’s watch.

Mrs. Haussner passed away a year after the restaurant closed.

“Mrs. Haussner was the soul of Haussner’s,” said John R. Dorsey, former Sun art critic and restaurant reviewer. “She had a strong business sense, and her warm, welcoming, kindly presence, together with the comfortable food, made you happy there. She was an art collector both behind and ahead of fashion, and the art made Haussner’s a nationally cited tourist attraction. She is a Baltimore legend.”

Haussner’s “didn’t have a rival in the 1940s, 1950s and into the 1960s, and for years, there was simply no point in going anywhere else. It was one of those rare places,” said Carleton Jones, retired Sunday Sun feature writer and restaurant critic. “Mrs. Haussner was a tireless person who was always there. I admired her as I know hundreds of others did.” – Baltimore Sun

family portrait: findagrave.com

Apparently, Mrs. Haussner was a vegetarian. That didn’t inhibit the fame of Haussner’s food including “sour beef” that was a draw for former governor and mayor William Donald Schaefer.

My first memorable encounter with sour beef was at Crossroads Restaurant, which was not particularly far from where Haussners stood. It was the “house specialty” and when we inquired what it was the waitress crinkled up her nose. “I don’t really like it,” she reluctantly admitted. “It kind of smells weird…” I did not try the sour beef.

inside Haussner’s menu

Although recipes for that legendary strawberry pie persist on the internet, the sauerbraten seems a little more elusive.

It could be that marinating a roast in wine, vinegar, and a load of spices for several days is not appealing, or maybe putting gobs of sugar in addition to gingersnaps in a meat dish seems ill-advised.

I put my reservations aside and stuck close to formula with the exception of adapting the dish for the slow-cooker. This allowed me to enjoy this meal on a weeknight at a reasonable hour. I used a mix of available vinegars (none was specified in the recipe) but I think that cider vinegar would be best.

The result was pretty tasty although I don’t think this is a dish I’d make on a regular basis. I’m told this should be served with red cabbage and spaetzle. We had it with collards and mashed potatoes because that is what I already had on hand.  Tart meat takes some getting used to but along with some mellow sides this does make a satisfying cold-weather meal.

Recipe:

• 1.75 Cup wine, Burgundy, Pinot Noir or similar
• 1 pint cider vinegar
• 1.25 Cup sugar
• 6 lemons halved and squeezed, juice reserved
• .5 Lb chopped onion
• .25 Cup pickling spice
• 2 sticks cinnamon
• 2 Lb beef pot roast
• .5 Teaspoon salt
• .25 Teaspoon seasoning salt
• .25 Lb crushed gingersnap cookies
• 2 bay leaves
• flour

In a glass or ceramic bowl (do not use metal), mix together 1.5 cups wine, vinegar, 1 cup sugar, lemon juice, lemon halves, onions, pickling spice, and cinnamon. Add meat and let it marinate in a cool place for a few days, turning occasionally. Be sure the marinade completely covers the meat.Remove the meat and place it in a slow cooker with about 3 cups of marinade. Cook for 6 hours on low. Skim off extra fat from pot liquid and/or roast and place it in a saucepan. Add enough flour to make a smooth roux. Cook over low heat for 3 to 4 minutes.Into the roux, strain about 1 cup of oil and juices from the top of the cooking liquid and add reserved uncooked marinade. Add remaining ¼ cup wine, remaining ¼ cup sugar, salt, seasoning salt, gingersnaps, and bay leaves. Whisk together as mixture starts to bubble. Lower heat and simmer for about 20 minutes. If gravy is too thick, add water; if too thin, simmer a little longer to reduce. Slice meat and place on individual plates. Pour gravy over meat and serve.

Recipe adapted from “Maryland’s Historic Restaurants and their recipes”