Red Devil’s Cake

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I found this rare little church cookbook at the Kelmscott Bookshop a few months ago. It’s got a bunch of old photographs and a brief history of a town in Maryland right on the Pennsylvania border, Bentley Springs.

On October 4, 1837, the Baltimore and Susquehanna Railroad obtained a right-of-way from William Dorsey and leveled a path through the valley for its rails… Mr. Charles W. Bentley and Ann O., his wife, appreciating the healthful location and charming natural scenery, purchased it from Talbot Denmead… and named it Bentley Springs. It was found to possess waters of great medicinal value and was visited by hundreds every summer, until it obtained an extensive reputation as a summer resort.
The Bentleys, apparently with unlimited resources [built]… a large hotel that contained forty rooms with lavish appointments and a courtyard paved with blocks of marble…
” – Bentley Springs History and Favorite Recipes

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Boarding House

I couldn’t find much else about Bentley Springs aside from the information in the recipe book. Much of the town was built around supplying food and labor to the hotel. A church was built in the 1870s along with several mills that employed the townspeople.

When the hotel burned down, the boarding house (pictured above) was built in its place and the Bentleys moved away.

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Like many mill towns built around the railroad boom, Bentley Springs went into a bit of decline in the automobile age. One of the paper mills burned down, followed by the beloved town store a few years later.

Despite this, the recipe book assures us, “the pleasures were many”: children playing in the snow and swimming holes, church picnics, fishing and trapping. Emphasized above all is the natural beauty, wildflowers, rocky hills and babbling brooks. The kind of scenery that makes me excited for spring.

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This cake recipe was contributed to the book by “Eliza V. Smith,” who sadly does not appear in any of the photos of townspeople. A few of the same photos printed in the cookbook can be found on this site.

I believe that “Red Devil’s Cake” and the now ubiquitous Red Velvet Cake are essentially the same thing. Recipes for Red Devil’s Cake appeared in newspapers across the country in the 1920s and 1930s. The original red color of these cakes was caused by a reaction between the cocoa and the acidic sour milk. Modern cocoa tends to be Dutch processed and this reaction is a thing of the past. Most Red Velvet Cake recipes now involve red food coloring.

My cake beautification skills are pretty pitiful as you can see, but I enjoyed this moist cake with some buttercream frosting.
I’d imagine that Eliza’s Red Devil’s Cake would have been made with pride and care and brought along to one of the many picnics and revivals centered around “this little stone church in the wilderness.”

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Recipe:

  • 2 Cups cake flour
  • 1.25 Teaspoon baking soda
  • .24 Teaspoon salt
  • .5 Cup butter
  • 1 Cup sugar
  • 2 egg
  • 2 square chocolate
  • 1 Teaspoon vanilla extract
  • .75 Cup sour milk
  • .333 Cup boiling water

1. Sift, then measure flour. Sift three times with soda and salt.
2. Cream butter until light and lemon colored. Add sugar gradually, beating after each addition until light and fluffy.
3. Slowly add the eggs which have been beaten until they are almost stiff as whipped cream. Gradually add the chocolate which has been melted and cooled.
4. Stir the vanilla into the milk. Alternately add the dry ingredients and the milk, beating until smooth after each addition. Add the boiling water and beat well.
5. Turn into greased cake pan and bake.
6. Frost, let cake stand for two hours before cutting to allow red color to develop.
Amount: 2 8 inch layers
Temperature 350° for 25-30 minutes.

Recipe from “Bentley Springs: Our History and Favorite Recipes”

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One Hundred Dollar Fudge

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In 1971, a woman in Fruitland, MD, recovering from an illness, took out an ad in the Salisbury Daily Times to express gratitude towards the “many friends who contributed in any way” towards her recovery. She thanked friends, neighbors, ambulance drivers, doctors, her Pastor, and she praised the Lord. She also thanked “Bill Phillips and the many Party Line listeners” – for the cards, flowers, phone calls and cash donations that they provided in her time of need.

For over thirty years, Party Line was one of the most popular radio shows on the Eastern Shore. Hosted by onetime station manager William Phillips on the WICO country music station, “Party Line” served as a forum where listeners could call in to buy, sell and swap anything from outboard motors to exotic birds. The idea of Craigslist as a morning talk show may seem confusing, but by all accounts, the show’s popularity could be attributed to Phillips himself, who charmed listeners with “folksy chit-chat” – and a sense of community so strong that it mobilized listeners to care for one-another in times of need. An oft-repeated anecdote about the show involves a woman who called to report that her husband lost his dentures on the beach – later found by another Party Line listener, of course.

The nature of radio broadcasts is somewhat ephemeral – and an on-air flea-market even more so. But the show has left behind a lasting legacy in the form of a beloved cookbook sourced from its many listeners. Eastern Shore natives still seek out copies and share memories of the tattered copies of this book serving faithfully in their family kitchens. According to the book’s preface, “What is Cooking On Party Line” received 1400 contributions from listeners.

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The resulting book gives an overview of what was cooking in Eastern Shore kitchens around 1983. From the first recipe for “Cheddar Cheese Balls” to the final recipe, “Red Pepper Jelly,” the collection demonstrates that food habits from a particular time and place can’t be easily pigeonholed or stereotyped. While there are many convenience recipes associated with the 1970s, featuring processed ingredients such as Kool-Aid and Cheez-Whiz, there are also recipes that have obviously been passed down for generations, for pickling and preserving, or serving up game like muskrat, possum, and woodchuck. Eight different corn pudding recipes are included. There are, of course, nearly 40 recipes featuring crab. The book also weaves prayers throughout, a constant reminder of spirituality and its ties to the kitchen.

My own copy has a previous owner’s index of favorite recipes hand-written in the back cover- mostly for some of the cakes. When the compilers of “What is Cooking on Party Line” received multiple submissions of very similar recipes, they attribute the recipe to multiple names. It’s interesting to observe the way the recipes had spread and been shared, even before this popular cookbook was published.

I decided to make one of the more ‘popular’ recipes and so I made “One Hundred Dollar Fudge,” a recipe with seven names listed underneath. I didn’t have marshmallow fluff so I made it from marshmallows. I would actually recommend this step to others who make the fudge. The corn syrup in the fluff controls sugar crystallization, and my fudge came out so smooth that it got comments on that fact.

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1966 ad for a political appearance on “Party Line”

William Phillips passed away in November 1994, and the show came to an end. WICO Program Director Dave Parks recalled “he was one of the last local superstars in radio. One of a dying breed. He was known all over the Eastern Shore. He was like a Hollywood star here. He endured because of his personality. He really was Mr. Radio.”

Some younger cooks who have inherited copies of the book may have never heard the show, but many people still recall it fondly and can sing the jingle by heart.

“Hello.
Is this the party line?
Yes, it’s your party line and it’s time for all the gossip on your party line.
What’s goin’ on, tell us who, when and how?
Well, just listen in to your party line now.
WICO Radio brings you the latest on your party line, party line.”

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Recipe:

  • 2 sticks margarine or butter
  • 4 ½ c. sugar
  • 1 can evaporated milk

Cook over medium high heat and bring to a rapid boil, stirring constantly. Boil exactly 5 minutes, remove from heat and add:

  • 3 c. (18 oz.) chocolate chips
  • 9 oz. jar marshmallow creme

Stir until melted. Add:

  • 2 Tbsp vanilla
  • ½ c. nuts
  • 1 c. peanut butter (optional)

Pour into buttered 13 x 9 inch baking pan. Set in refrigerator overnight. Then set out two hours before cutting or it will crumble. Makes 5 lbs. of fudge.

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