Macaroons No. 2, Miss Tyson

image

This is another entry laden with tedious detective work, my unrestrained fanaticism ruining any possibility of ever attracting repeat readers.
I’ll try to keep it brief.

According to “The American Magazine and Historical Chronicle“, 1987, “famed Baltimore hostess, Mrs. B.C. Howard, compiled the earliest charity cookbook published in Maryland, Fifty Years in a Maryland Kitchen’(Baltimore, 1873).” Certainly, “50 years” is one of the more famous and important of Maryland cookbooks.

A few months ago, in my quest to print-on-demand every Maryland cookbook in the public domain, I found a lesser-known Maryland cookbook entitled “Queen of the Kitchen,” written by a mysterious “Miss Tyson” or “M. L. Tyson” in 1870. The name of course resonated but Tyson is no Paca, Howard or even Pratt – not as unquestionably Maryland upper-crust.

“Queen of the Kitchen” certainly disseminated around Maryland. Some of the recipes in “Maryland’s Way” came from different Marylanders’ personal copies of the book.

When I began to enter the recipes into my database I noticed something – many of the recipes were strikingly similar to recipes in “Fifty Years in a Maryland Kitchen.” Copying recipes into new cookbooks hardly qualified as plagiarism at the time. It was rampant. Still, it is pretty interesting to see the source of so many recipes from Mrs. B.C. Howard’s book!

Howard may have owned a copy of the book, or she may have known Tyson and they both sourced the recipes from common friends or from each-other.

So… who was M. L. Tyson?

image

Apparently “Queen of the Kitchen” was a cookbook by a Baltimore woman, published to raise money to build an Episcopal church in Oakland Maryland. Kind of random but… ok.

By researching the church I was able to determine that M.L. Tyson was Mary Lloyd Tyson, born in 1843. And she was indeed Maryland upper-crust. Mary Tyson’s mother was none other than Rebecca Ann Key, cousin of Francis Scott Key. Her father, physician and planner Alexander H. Tyson was Rebecca’s second husband. According to accounts, Rebecca Ann Key was a stunning woman.

What was she, you will ask—she was no Queen or Goddess—she represented
no character in Shakespeare—neither was she attired in any costume as a
princess—she was herself only and as herself dressed in some white
material familiar to you ladies, but unknown to me. She paraded through
those rooms—crowded with all the beauty of this city of beauties—the
acknowledged Queen of the Night—not that she received more attention,
but she elicited the most admiration.
” – “Some Account of Mr. and Mrs. Cohen’s Fancy Ball,” MDHS Underbelly blog

It’s agonized me that I could not find her portrait.

image

Dr. William Howard’s home, Charles and Franklin Street, (loc.gov)

So anyway, Rebecca’s FIRST husband was William Howard. William was Benjamin Howard’s brother. Basically, Mrs. B.C. Howard and M.L. Tyson were related, and certainly knew one-another.

What’s more, Mary Tyson’s half brother, William Key Howard, married a woman named Clara Haxall Randolph in 1860. Clara was Mary Randolph’s niece. How about that!

There’s a few other asides. Pretty much all of the people involved were Confederate sympathizers – William Key served in the war. Here is his picture:

image

findagrave.com

Mary’s younger sister Nannie married an actor named Robert Lee Keeling. He was twenty years younger than her. Future mayor James H. Preston (I made his corn pone) was an usher at their wedding. The marriage quickly soured. Robert Lee Keeling went on to become a celebrated painter of miniature portraits.

When “Queen of the Kitchen” was published, Mary Lloyd Tyson was a single woman of 27. She was likely not the female head of her household as her mother was still alive. (As opposed to Mrs. B.C. Howard who was 72 when her book was published.)

image

I think the Tyson’s lived here, on the 500 block of Park Avenue (loc.gov)

Mary Tyson became Mrs. George Tucker in 1875. The Tuckers resided in Virginia. Both Rebecca Ann Key and Mary’s sister Nannie spent their final days there, and Mary herself passed away in 1908.

I made Tyson’s macaroons – what would today be called ‘macarons’. This is not one of the recipes that Howard reprinted, although she did use a second macaroon recipe, with slight adjustments. The Tysons lived in Baltimore city, not far from Belvidere at all. Especially considering that M.L. Tyson was not the head of her household at the time of the books publication, the families might have shared receipts.

I don’t have a good way to finish this post but if you’ve made it this far, what does it matter? These cookies were delicious for the record.

image
image
image
image
image
image
image
image
image

Waverly Jumbles

image

“Walter Scott has no business to write novels, especially good ones. –
It is not fair. He has Fame and Profit enough as a Poet, and should not
be taking the bread out of other people’s mouths.– I do not like him,
and do not mean to like Waverley if I can help it – but fear I must.”
– Jane Austen

I used to live in a
charming neighborhood called Waverly. When I saw a recipe in the Southern Heritage Cookie
Jar
cookbook for “Waverly Jumbles”, I was intrigued but could draw no obvious
connection at the time. Recently, I was pleased to come across this same recipe in the 1907
book “Colonial Recipes, from Old Virginia and Maryland Manors.”

It turns out that this
recipe (probably) originates from the Waverly mansion in Marriottsville, not too far outside the city. Waverly, the neighborhood, must be named for this mansion
then
. Nope. As it turns out there are well over 30 places named Waverly or
Waverley around the country, most of which are named after “Waverley,” an 1814
novel by Sir Walter Scott. It seems that this work of historical fiction and the series
of novels that followed were wildly popular in the 1800′s. I’m sure the fact that “Waverly” just
sounds cool played a role.

image

burgersub.org historical marker photo

Waverly in Marriottsville was
first developed by Charles Carroll of Carrolton and was perhaps most notably
the home of Maryland governor George Howard, his wife Prudence Gough Ridgely,
and their fourteen children. Howard had grown up at Belvidere, later home of
Mrs. B. C. Howard (author of
Fifty years in a Maryland Kitchen”). The Ridgely family, you may recall, resided at Hampton mansion.

The governor and his wife carried on the
tradition of the plantation lifestyle at Waverly, where Howard “led the life of
a country gentleman and a farmer.” Hundreds of people were enslaved at this
plantation, where it is said that one of the buildings served as a “slave jail.”
Other buildings included a corn crib, overseers house, and a dairy.

The mansion and some of
the buildings are still standing, and have been restored. Although the site is
not a historical park, it can be rented out for weddings and events. Some of the
land is used for a golf course, some for a landfill.

image

Waverly, Maryland Historical Trust

“Colonial recipes, from
old Virginia and Maryland manors, with numerous legends and traditions
interwoven,” by Maude A. Bomberger, contains romanticized nostalgia and recipes
from Waverly, Hampton, and several other Maryland manors. It is implied that
the Waverly Jumbles recipe came from the papers of Mrs. George (Prudence)
Howard. 

Jumbles are a cookie type
dating back to 17th century Europe. Sometimes they were baked into
pretzel shapes or braids, and boiled instead of baked. They were a popular treat
for travelers because they hold up more or less the same texture for months on
end. 

To capitalize on the current
wild popularity of President James Monroe(?), recent books have attempted to
label Waverly Jumbles as “James Monroe’s favorite cookie.” Apparently a copy of
the recipe surfaced in papers of his descendants. Although the rose-water and nutmeg
flavorings are decidedly old-fashioned, the recipe doesn’t make any documented
appearance until about forty years after his death. In 1872, “Waverly Jumbles” first appeared
in the Maryland cookbook “Queen of the Kitchen” by M.L. Tyson and then two
years later in Mrs. B.C. Howard’s book  (which pilfered many recipes from the
former.)

The original recipes were even more vague than Mrs. George Howard’s recipe below, instructing
bakers to roll the dough out and “cut with a shape.” Bafflingly, “Fifty Years
in a Maryland Kitchen” removed any instruction about rolling or cutting the
dough at all. In 1879, the Tyson recipe was printed in several newspapers around
the country. Each and every one of these recipes completely omits the part
where you actually bake the cookie. Fortunately I had that Southern Heritage
book to fall back on for some guidance on oven temperature.

I can’t finish this entry without pointing out this bizarre urban dictionary entry:

Top Definition








waverly jumbles

1) Another name for testicles, or balls

2) Jame’s Madison’s favorite type of cookie.

1) Higgins totally racked his waverly jumbles on Alex’s knee when he fell off the yoga ball.

2) Those waverly jumbles we ate in class were so fucking good.

¯_(ツ)_/¯

image

Recipe:

  • 1lb flour
  • .5 lb butter
  • .75 lb brown sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 2 tb rose water

“Roll out long with hands and join in rings (very good).”

Actual directions: Cream butter and sugar, add eggs (beaten) then rosewater and nutmeg. Gradually add flour. Chill dough before rolling out and bake in 350°

oven for about ten minutes, until browned. Cool fully before serving.

Recipe from “Colonial Recipes, from Old Virginia and Maryland Manors“ by Maude A Bomberger

image
image
image
image
image
image

Sotterly Jumbles

image

photo: Jody Scofield

“One of the pre-Revolutionary architectural treasures of St. Mary’s County, Maryland, is Sotterley, built in 1730. George Plater built the home, and upon his death passed it to his son, who later became the governor of Maryland. The grandson of the Governor eventually lost the estate at the gaming table to a Colonel Sommerville. Colonel Thomas Barber subsequently bought the property. It was the Barber womenfolk who handed down the recipe for Sotterley Jumbles for the delectation of us all. In this recipe, the cookie is rolled and cut, just one of the many possible shapings for this ancient form of ‘cake’.” – Southern Heritage Cookbook Library

This recipe was the most fun to read about, research, and to eat. It got a little confusing. The excerpt from Southern Heritage mentions the Barber family, but that name is not mentioned on the Sotterley website. What I gather from this account is that Thomas Barber willed (part of) the land to his step-daughter, and she married and took on the Briscoe name.

I actually tried to visit Sotterley Plantation but they are big liars about their hours and they were closed. I’m not too upset about it because I picked up some Stuffed Ham while I was down there. I’ll be back because look at this place:

image

National Register of Historic Places

The Southern Heritage cookbook library version of the recipe that I used was likely sourced from “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland”, a classic Maryland cookbook which I’ll have to elaborate on later.

Sotterley Jumbles

  • 1 cup butter, softened
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 4 eggs
  • ¼ cup brandy
  • 4 ½ cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • ½ tsp nutmeg
image

Cream butter in a large mixing bowl; gradualy add sugar, beating well. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well. Stir in brandy, mixing well.

image

Sift together flour, soda, and nutmeg; add to creamed mixture, mixing well to form a soft dough. Chill 2 hours.

image

Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface; roll to ¼-inch thickness. Cut with a 2-inch round cutter.

image

Place 2 inches apart on ungreased cookie sheets. Bake at 350F for 15 minutes or until lightly browned.

image
image

Remove from cookie sheets, and cool on wire racks. Yield: about 6 dozen.

I liked them!

Posts navigation

1 2
Scroll to top
error: Content is protected !!