Cheddar Chowder, Mrs. Janet Gadd Doehler

First Published in 1962 by The Episcopal Church Women of St. Paul’s Parrish in Queen Anne’s County, this spiral bound cookbook is of a type I come across frequently – the church or fund-raiser “community” cookbook. Usually spiral-bound, printed by various specialty companies, and containing home-grown illustrations if you’re lucky, these volumes are a great resource of recipes of ordinary people throughout several decades of the 20th century. They are also a huge source of frustration to a completist such as myself.

This recipe was contributed to “Queen Anne Goes to the Kitchen” by a Mrs. Janet Gadd Doehler. Mrs. Doehler resided on the historical Sidney Gadd farm in Centreville Maryland, described in this Maryland Historical Trust document as “a very plain mid-19th century three bay; two and one half story frame building. It is unusual for that date in that the original kitchen was in the basement where there is a cooking fireplace.”
It seems possible that Janet is still alive – google turns up an award winning gardener in that general area and a ‘Janet and Sydney Gadd Doehler’ as supporters of Adkins Arboretum, also in that general area. I feel remiss that I did not get in touch with her – when working with newer recipes I sometimes forget that the involved parties may still be available.

Sidney Gadd Farm, Maryland Historical Trust

The first thing that most culinary historians will encounter in the older “receipt” collections or cooking texts is the lack of instructions by modern standards. “Cook it ’til it’s done,” is sometimes the extent of it. As cookbooks progress on to modernity, recipes get more and more informative. Yet even here we see examples of assuming a basic knowledge of cooking skills. “Make a white sauce with margarine, flour, and milk” is part of the instructions.

I used what I had on hand, substituting shallot for onion and cooked thick bacon for ham. Pretty liberal I guess. I also used butter instead of margarine because I don’t F around with the latter. I guess I ought to go post an angry review about how it didn’t turn out.
Actually it turned out tasty and hearty. In fact, using what you have on hand is often an accurate way to get in the spirit of older recipes. I also used stock instead of boiling water because I have to keep the constant kitchen scraps stock cycle going infinitely.∞

  • 2 Cups boiling water or stock
  • 2 Cups diced potato
  • .5 Cup sliced carrot
  • 1 Cup celery
  • .5 Cup chopped onion
  • 1.5 Teaspoons salt
  • .25 Teaspoons black pepper
  • .25 Cup butter
  • .25 Cup flour
  • 2 Cups milk
  • 2 Cups shredded Cheddar cheese
  • .125 Teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 Cup cubed, cooked ham

Add water to vegetables, salt and pepper. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Do not drain. Make a white sauce with butter, flour, and milk. Add cheese and soda; stir until melted. Cool the stock and vegetables to lukewarm. (Be sure vegetables are not hot. If cream sauce is added to the hot mixture, it will curdle.) Add ham and un-drained vegetables to cream sauce. Heat. Do not boil. Serves 6 to 8.
Variation: Omit ham and substitute 8 slices of crumbled bacon or 1 cup of cooked shrimp.

Recipe Adapted from “Queen Anne Goes to the Kitchen”

Sweet Potato Croquettes, Miss Eliza Thomas

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I enjoy discussing and learning about history, as well as cooking, but since I am not an actual expert at either I feel like these blog entries are like.. enjoyable term papers. As though someone went to college and liked it. That someone is ME.. So let me get my “scientific method” of historical food blog entries together and enjoy this educational experience. Before your very eyes…

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Introduction: Croquettes appear in many forms throughout my various sources. I had two sweet potatoes left over from something else and thought I’d give this recipe a try. It also gave me an opportunity to use my neglected Kitchenaid grinder.

So… Fun* facts… the Wikipedia page for croquettes is unexpectedly** substantial and full of photos of delicious** fried things.

Unwelcome personal anecdote… these sweet potato croquettes reminded me of the “sweet potato sticks” that they used to sell at the Fireman’s Carnival in Chincoteague, VA. I love sweet potatoes and I always loved this annual treat – warm creamy center in a crispy, greasy** fried exterior.

Cooking details… My one regret is following this recipe too closely and adding the full called-for amount of salt. Too salty. Cooks at home: salt to taste! Always! But I keep making this mistake.

Historical background, the “meat” of ‘Old Line Plate’.. as for Miss Eliza Thomas, I could only find some facts indicating she is an heiress, inheriting lands from her husband’s grandmother, and maybe other family members? Research is complicated by the fact that several of her relatives share her name. She lived in Baltimore but inherited lands on the Patuxent, known as “Trent Hall,” here lamented to be in a state of neglect along with its super cool tombs.

“Colonial mansions of Maryland and Delaware” by John Martin Hammond asserts that she also inherited another estate on the Patuxent known as Cremona: “Among the charming homes in Saint Mary’s County Maryland of which an extended story has not been told… another Key house Cremona which has been inherited by Miss Eliza Thomas of Baltimore”

“Cremona Farm: Jewel of the Patuxent River” by Jamie Haydel

Outside of the above article I only found this photo of the interior, from the Baltimore Sun.

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Recipe: 

  • 2 cups cooked peeled sweet potato
  • 1 Tablespoon butter
  • Salt to taste
  • 1 Tablespoon sugar
  • ½ teaspoon of white pepper
  • 1 egg
  • breadcrumbs
  • fat

Run sweet potato through a vegetable mill or grinder. Add butter, salt, sugar and white pepper; mix thoroughly. Form into cylinders, dip in egg, then in bread crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat.

Recipe adapted from Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland 

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*the actual definition of fun is subjective

**TO ME

Celery Soup, Mrs. J. Alexis Shriver

This is a recipe for a cold and rainy day when you have nothing better to do but force the most notoriously fibrous of vegetables through a sieve. You will then mix it with cream and salty stock and annihilate that whole negative calorie thing that celery is famous for.

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There was a time before celery was the vegetable of misery, and it made its way into pot pies, chicken salads, and in this case into stock which, in a fiber-free double-whammy, goes back into this soup containing more celery. Well this was sort of a pain in the @%$ to make. Tasty but I’m not sure if it was worth the effort. If I had a more sturdy strainer maybe I’d reconsider. I also would have made this with more celery. Mrs. Shriver is very vague about the amount of celery to use despite being very particular about other things. For instance, a double-boiler was called for. I ignored this – double-boilers were often necessary for hearth cooking but hardly so on my gas range.Sadly I did not find much information on Mrs. Shriver. Instead, I read all about her husband, as is often the case with the misseses of “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland.”

James Alexis Shriver was a passionate historian. We apparently have him to thank for a lot of the first Maryland historical markets, including many of the “George Washington ___ here” variety.

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J. Alexis Shriver installing the ‘John Brown’ marker in 1938

James Alexis Shriver was born in 1872. A Baltimore resident during his early years, Shriver moved to near Joppa in Harford County after graduating from Cornell in the early 1890’s. Born of a wealthy and well-known Maryland family… Just after the turn of the century, Shriver became very active in the Harford County Historical Society…. He caused a number of cast iron road markers to be raised along the highways and byways of the state. Most were concerning with Washington’s well-documented journeys, and all were unveiled with as much ceremony as could be gotten from the situation.” – MDHS

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Recipe:

  • celery
  • 1 pint chicken or veal stock
  • I Tb butter
  • 2 Tb flour
  • black pepper
  • salt
  • 1 Cup cream

Boil celery until soft, then press through a sieve. Discard the fiber. In a pot over medium heat, add the celery to the stock. Rub a tablespoonful of butter into two tablespoonfuls of flour, and add to soup to thicken. Season with pepper and salt, and strain again so the soup will be perfectly smooth. Return to low heat and add cream.

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Recipe adapted from Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland

Maryland Rocks

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photo c/o official Old Line Plate photographer Abby Logsdon

Apparently this is an old one! This recipe is featured in The Thirteen Colonies Cookbook and At the hearth: Early American Recipes. Coincidentally they’re mentioned in there as “New Year’s Day Collation at Mount Clare”. (I made these to go with my New Years Day brunch) I didn’t really stray much from the recipe, aside from making them larger because I didn’t feel like spooning out 9 dozen little cookies. Ingredients * 1 cup butter or margarine, softened * 1 ½ cups firmly packed brown sugar * 3 eggs * 2 ½ cups all-purpose flour * 1 teaspoon baking soda * 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon * 1 (15-ounce) package raisins * 2 cups chopped walnuts Preparation Cream 1 cup butter in a large mixing bowl; gradually add brown sugar, beating well.

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Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Combine flour, soda, and cinnamon in a medium mixing bowl; stir well. Dredge raisins and walnuts in ¼ cup flour mixture in a small mixing bowl.

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Add remaining flour mixture to creamed mixture, stirring well. Stir in dredged raisin mixture.

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Drop dough by teaspoonfuls, 1 ½ inches apart, onto greased baking sheets.

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Bake at 350° for 10 minutes or until golden brown. Cool slightly on baking sheets before removing to wire racks.

Though I’m not a huge fan of raisins and raisin cookies, I’ve been snacking on these for days. “At The Hearth” suggested their flavor improves after sitting for a few days. I guess that’s when they become more like “rocks.” I expected something more hard to eat. These are no more… geological than your average crispy cookie.

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