Kinklings, Eva Reeder

“The kinkling and the doughnut die,
The pancake and the waffle cease,
But now doth come the rhubarb pie,
Oh, may I have another piece?”

— Baltimore Sun 1910

The Germans who colonized Western Maryland in the 1700s brought with them devout Christianity — primarily Lutheranism and Calvinism. But where one scratches the surface of devout Christianity, one often finds a little bit of Paganism hiding out, and Carnival season might be one of the times when the old ways are less hidden (despite the masks.)

Fat Tuesday aka Fastnacht happens to coincide with a time when a feast may have taken place among Germanic tribes, a celebration to drive away winter and usher in Spring fertility and sunlight.

This became the festivities referenced by Shakespeare in his 1601 play The Merchant of Venice:
“Nor thrust your head into the public street
To gaze on Christian fools with varnish’d faces.”

Although the area along the Monocacy River that Germans settled was a fertile region, it could also be a harsh and isolated one. There weren’t a lot of public streets to thrust one’s head into, and many of the social aspects of Carnival were left to the old world.

But not the sweet treats.

Fastnacht doughnuts famously took on the name “Kinklings” in Western Maryland and became a beloved tradition beyond the German communities where they originated.

An 1889 advertisement in the Frederick News touted “Golden Tinge” flour. “Next week will be fastnacht,” reminded the ad, “so all ye good housekeepers fill up your barrels.”

The same newspaper warned elsewhere that “old wiseacres say if you don’t make kinklins today you will have bed bugs all the year.” Who could risk that?

Eventually, churches and bakers helped people avoid the bedbugs with less hassle by selling fresh kinklings. One baker advertised that he would “have them delivered hot.”

Mrs. Eva Reeder shared her recipe in a cookbook produced in the 1970s by St. Mark Lutheran Church in Adamstown.

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Brownies, “The Misses Reynolds,” Rose Hill Manor Inn

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2018 seems to be the year of sweets for Old Line Plate. I haven’t had any complaints yet so I’ll keep going with that. For this simple (and delicious) recipe I reached for my trusty copy of “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland.”

Rose Hill Manor is just the kind of estate that EDBM author Frederick Phillip Stieff loved to rave about. Built in the Greek Revival style in the 1790s by Ann Jennings Johnson and her husband Major John Graeme, Rose Hill Manor is most famous for being the home of Ann’s father Thomas Johnson, who was the first governor of Maryland, from 1777-1779. The elder Johnson had been a friend and supporter of George Washington, had been involved in the planning of Washington D.C., and was a delegate in the Maryland Constitutional Convention. Some of the outbuildings at Rose Hill are still standing, including an icehouse, a smokehouse, and a laundry. In the 1970s, a log-cabin was moved to the property from elsewhere in the Frederick area. The slave-quarters are no longer standing but the Graemes and Johnson had all been slave-owners, and at least 30 people had been enslaved at Rose Hill.

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Postcard, Rose Hill Manor Inn

Maryland Historical Trust documents about the property make sure to mention that George Washington did NOT visit Johnson there. Washington had died by the time Johnson moved in with his daughter, or else I am sure he would have visited Rose Hill, since that guy went everywhere.

From 1915 to about 1935, the manor was operating as an inn under the management of “The Misses Reynolds.” “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland” was published in 1932, and the five “Rose Hill Manor Inn” recipes included in the book are attributed to the Reynolds: “Brownies,” “Chicken Sago Soup,” “Ginger Pears,” “India Chutney Sauce,” and “Fried Chicken.”

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Frederick County,” The Historical Society of Frederick County

I couldn’t find out very much about these Reynolds sisters. They came from Scranton, Pennsylvania. Lydia Jane (“L. Jane”) was the eldest, born in 1857, Clair was born in 1864. Their niece Agnes Rice was also involved in the operation of the business, as was a black servant named Bessie Ceaser. The census refers to the inn as a “Tea House,” perhaps because that was a common business for women to operate. After their inn-running adventure, the sisters returned to the Scranton area where they lived until the 1940s, Clair passing away in 1941 and L. Jane in 1948.

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Rose Hill Manor Ice House, Maryland Historical Trust

Rose Hill Manor is now a park and museum with an exhibit on the life of Governor Thomas Johnson, “as well as the history of agriculture and transportation in Frederick County.” They have a lot of programming geared toward children.

These brownies were excellent despite my not having an appropriate pan, and the center staying a little gooey. I used what I had on hand – some 74% baking wafers. I enjoyed them with friends and we wondered about the crusty tops. It turns out that is from the egg-whites and sugar – kind of a type of meringue. Now you know!

Even with the wet center and cutting the brownies like pie, the entire pan got eaten IMMEDIATELY. This leaves room on my kitchen counter for yet more desserts so stay tuned.

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Recipes:

  • 2 eggs
  • 1 Cup sugar
  • .5 Cup flour
  • .5 Cup melted butter
  • 2 oz chocolate
  • 1 Cup nuts

Beat eggs and sugar together, then beat in flour, mixing well. Melt butter & chocolate & beat into eggs. Stir in nuts. Bake for about 20 minutes at 400°.

Beat eggs and sugar together, then beat in flour, mixing well. Melt butter & chocolate & beat into eggs. Stir in nuts. Bake for about 20 minutes at 400°.

Recipe adapted from “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland

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Black Bean Soup, Mrs. Charles B. Trail

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The Mier expedition was an unsuccessful military operation launched in November 1842 by a Texian militia against Mexican border settlements…. On December 20, 1842, some 308 Texan soldiers, who had ignored orders to pull back from the Rio Grande to Gonzales, approached Ciudad Mier… The Texans were unaware that 3,000 Mexican troops were in the area under the command of generals Francisco Mexia and Pedro de Ampudia. In the Battle of Mier that resulted, the Texians were outnumbered ten to one… diplomatic efforts on behalf of Texas by the foreign ministers of the United States and Great Britain led [Antonio López de Santa Anna, the ruler of Mexico] to compromise: he said one in ten of the prisoners would be killed. To help determine who would die, Huerta had 159 white beans and 17 black beans placed in a pot. In what came to be known as the Black Bean Episode or the Bean Lottery, the Texans were blindfolded and ordered to draw beans. Officers and enlisted men, in alphabetical order, were ordered to draw. The seventeen men who drew black beans were allowed to write letters home before being executed by firing squad.” – The Mier Expedition, Wikipedia

This Wikipedia excerpt brought to you by: nothing to write about this soup.

I got the recipe from “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland,” where it is credited to Mrs. Charles B. Trail. There was a junior and a senior Charles Bayard Trail but I believe the recipe may be from the elder Trail, who lived from 1857-1914 and served as Secretary of Legation to Brazil in the 1880s. In 1889 he married Grace Winebrener (1870-1941). Both came from prominent families in Frederick; their wedding was covered by the local news as well as the New York Times.

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Men of mark in Maryland,” 1907, archive.org

Seeing as how Mr. Trail spent some time in Brazil, it is tempting to draw a connection between the soup and Feijoada, which is sometimes served with orange slices. However, recipes similar to this one show up in several US cookbooks from the 1870s onward, in places far from Maryland as Chicago and Seattle.  

Bean soup when done right is a simple process with a complex flavor. Unfortunately, my experimenting with the electric pressure cooker did this one a disservice. I overcooked it and it came out kind of flat. I should have maybe done ten or fifteen minutes instead of twenty-five (natural release) and I should have resisted the instinct to integrate the ingredients, instead layering them with the meats (browned, perhaps) on the bottom and onions (sautéed, perhaps) on the top. Well, now I know! And now back to our unrelated filler:

In 1847, during the Mexican-American War, the U.S. Army occupied northeastern Mexico. Captain John E. Dusenbury, a white bean survivor, returned to El Rancho Salado and exhumed the remains of his comrades… They were buried in a large common tomb in 1848, in a cement vault on a bluff one mile south of La Grange. The grave site is now part of a state park, the Monument Hill and Kreische Brewery State Historic Sites.

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The Drawing of the Black Bean,” Frederic Remington

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Recipe:

  • water or stock
  • 1 Pint dry black beans
  • .5 Lb salt pork 
  • 1 beef bone
  • 1 onion
  • 1 carrot
  • 1 turnip
  • 1 teaspoon cloves
  • cornstarch
  • lemon slices
  • hard-boiled eggs

Soak 1 pint beans overnight in cold water.  Put the beans in 6 quarts cold water with ½ lb salt pork, a beef bone, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, one teaspoonful cloves.  Boil three or four hours, then strain through a colander.  Add a little cornstarch, thicken and boil a few minutes longer.  Serve with slices of lemon and hard-boiled egg.

Recipe from “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland”

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