This summer we took a vacation to Cincinnati (with many stops on the way). It seems very de rigeur these days for travelers through southwestern WV to sample their famous regional hot dog establishments, so that is what we did. With some guidance from the West Virginia Hot Dog Blog, we saw some sights, ate some slaw, consumed a lot of sweet tea, took mental notes.
For those not in the know, WV hot dogs consist of a steamed hot dog on a steamed bun, served with mustard, onions, “sauce” (a fine-ground chili variant), and a sweet, creamy slaw. The whole thing is a delicious squishy gooey mess meant to elevate the cheap hot dog with a contrast of the savory spice of chili and the crisp cool slaw.
Each dog was memorable in its own way – whether it was the experience of sitting at the King Tut Drive-In in Beckley reading their massive menu, the upside down chili-on-top dog at Toms (a greek style chili that was not unlike the Skyline Chili in Cincinnati), or the intriguing yellow slaw atop the Chums dog in Marmet (this was my personal favorite… I THINK).
You would think that this vacation would resolve with a bit of hot dog fatigue. Yet within a week of returning, Burgersub and I agreed that we could really go for another West Virginia dog.
The addictive nature of the combo might explain why, in its origin story, the chili-slaw-topped hot dog spread throughout the region after being popularized at the Stopette Drive In in Charleston.
The Hot Dog blog has laid down some basic rules and principles. “If you have to ask for slaw on a hot dog, it’s not a true WVHD.” They’ve created a convenient little map to illustrate the culture of the WV Hot Dog.
http://wvhotdogblog.blogspot.com/
Imagine my surprise when I encountered this recipe for “West Virginia Hot Dog Sauce” in the famous “What Is Cooking On Party Line” cookbook. The contributor of the recipe has too common a name to trace the lineage of this recipe, but it may be worth noting:
“In most of the state people call it “chili”. In Huntington and Marion County it is most often called sauce. The difference is largely semantic although in areas where it is called sauce the substance is usually finer ground and more liquid in consistency.” – The West Virginia Hot Dog Blog
This recipe, however, is not particularly liquid-y. Nor do they mention grinding the meat finer – a common step in recreating true WV Hot Dog Sauce. Ronni Lundy, author of “Victuals: An Appalachian Journey, with Recipes” mentions that a potato masher is sometimes used for this purpose.
I used Lundy’s formula for the slaw, substituting some whey for the buttermilk. I also used red cabbage, which I didn’t see anywhere in my WV hot dog travels. But as you know, my motto is that nothing is more “authentic” than to work with what you’ve got. Burgersub insisted the onions go under the hot dog. (The mustard gets spread on the bun.) For the record, our guests were all emphatic converts on chili-slaw dogs.
To further pervert these dogs, I used high-quality hot dogs, grilled them, and didn’t even steam the buns. What can I say? If you want something done right, don’t look at me.
Recipe:
(Served on steamed buns with steamed hot dogs with chopped onions and/or slaw.)
- 2 lbs. hamburger
- 1.5 Cups chopped onion, chop fine
- 3 small cloves garlic, chop fine
- salt, pepper, hot sauce (your favorite)
- 2 Tablespoons paprika
- 4 Tablespoons chili powder
- 2 small cans tomato soup
- 2 Cups water
Fry onions, garlic, salt, pepper and hot sauce in a large Dutch oven, large heavy skillet or heavy-weight pot. When the mixture is brown add hamburger. Cook until well done, stirring and mixing often. Add chili powder and paprika. Mix well. Add tomato soup and simmer for 45 minutes. Stir often to prevent sticking. The above makes ½ gallon of sauce. This may be used right away or may be put in containers suitable to your family’s needs and freeze.
This recipe may be used for spaghetti sauce with the addition of the following:
- 1 (15 oz.) can tomato sauce
- 1 c. water
Anna Lee Johnson
Recipe from “What Is Cooking On Party Line”
