(mini) Smith Island Cake

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“Effective October 1, 2008, the Smith Island Cake became the State Dessert of Maryland (Chapters 164 & 165, Acts of 2008; Code General Provisions Article, sec. 7-313). Traditionally, the cake consists of eight to ten layers of yellow cake with chocolate frosting between each layer and slathered over the whole. However, many variations have evolved, both in the flavors for frosting and the cake itself” – Maryland Manual On-line

I confess to being a onetime Smith Island Cake skeptic. When the layer-cake was declared the state dessert in 2008 I was baffled. What of the white potato pie? Or Lady Baltimore? (Not a Maryland cake by the way. Shame on me.) And then, in my haste to try this famed cake, I ordered up a slice at one of the many restaurants along Route 50 boasting the dessert. Hoping to lure in tourists on their way to or from the beach, many such establishments scrambled to procure some form of “Smith Island Cake.” I was disappointed by nine dry, lifeless layers, probably straight from Sysco, foe of all that is authentic.

I was missing the point of the Smith Island Cake Act. This cake wasn’t coronated to reign above all other Maryland desserts and to add a token “must try” to diners’ lists for corporations to cash in on. This is about more than cake. It is about recognizing a unique place and culture in our state. 

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Smith Island Cultural Center | Ewell, MD

Many Marylanders have, unbeknownst to us, had Smith Islanders to thank for our soft crabs and crab cakes, dishes widely known and ‘owned’ from the shore up through the panhandle. When you eliminate the clams, crabs, oysters, and fish that comprise the seafood-centric sustenance of Smith Islanders, what is left to distill into an emblem of tradition and the meticulousness of skilled island cooks is Smith Island Cake.

It is hard to pin down the cake’s origin from newspapers or books. The name “Smith Island Cake” is a relatively recent convention, and the number of layers varies and bloats through the ages. Some early news-writers mention trying the famous “seven layer cakes” of Smith Island. Layers eight, nine and ten have been slapped on in the last 20 years or so, with authority enough that many would scoff at seven layers today.

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Mrs. J. Millard (Helen Avalynne) Tawes’ “My Favorite Maryland Recipes” features a seven-layer cake with a cake and chocolate icing composition that is nearly identical to available recipes for Smith Island Cake. Tawes grew up in Crisfield, the closest town on the mainland, a departure point for ferries to the Ewell community on Smith Island.

My 1981 copy of “Mrs. Kitching’s Smith Island Cookbook” does not include the recipe for the cake – it was added by popular demand to later editions in the 1990′s. According to “Ethnic American Food Today: A Cultural Encyclopedia” (2015, Lucy Long), “many incorrectly credited the late island hostess, innkeeper and cookbook author Frances Kitching with the cake’s appearance. She helped popularize it with the thousands of guests she served at her home and boarding house…“ This account claims that the thin layers were the result of a primitive wood oven in which it was hard to get a larger layer to rise properly.

Others maintain that the large icing ratio helped to preserve the cake for longer. The rising fame of the cake only serves to further confuse the cake’s true origin or ‘purpose’ – as if a cake ever needed a purpose.

At the risk of incurring the wrath of purists everywhere, I used Kitching’s recipe for the cake layers to make two miniature layer cakes, and swapped out a cream-cheese icing. I gave my tiny cakes a patriotic flair with food coloring, and I did a characteristically incompetent job of icing them. Nonetheless, the cakes were a hit; moist soft layers held together with a thin slathering of icing.

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Smith Island Cake, Bayside Inn

In 2015 I visited the island. After a 30-minute breezy ferry ride to the Ewell community, we watched a video of a resident swiftly and expertly picking crabs for packing. I inquired into Mrs. Kitching’s old place – it had long since burned down. We strolled the streets for awhile. They resembled a sleepy Eastern Shore fishing community, but due to population (and land) loss it was even quieter. Occasional boat motors buzzed like cars on a distant highway, cicadas sang nearby. I was surprised to see pomegranate trees surviving the climate. Biting flies terrorized us, distracting from the picturesque calm summer day. We retreated indoors to Bayside Inn to finish our visit with a soft crab sandwich and yes, a slice of Smith Island Cake. I chose the “Peaches and Cream” variety. It was the best slice of cake I have ever tasted.

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Recipe:

  • 2 cups sugar 
  • 2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into chunks (1 cup) 
  • 5 eggs 
  • 3 cups flour 
  • ¼ teaspoon salt 
  • 1 heaping teaspoon baking powder 
  • 1 cup evaporated milk 
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla 
  • ½ cup water 

Cream together sugar and butter. Add eggs one at a time
and beat until smooth. Sift together flour, salt, and baking
powder. Mix into egg mixture one cup at a time. With mixer
running, slowly pour in the evaporated milk, then the vanilla
and water. Mix just until uniform.
Put three serving spoonfuls of batter in each of ten 9-inch
lightly greased pans, using the back of the spoon to spread evenly. Bake three layers at a time
on the middle rack of the oven at 350° for 8 minutes. A layer is done when you hold it near your
ear and you don’t hear it sizzle.
Start making the icing when the first layers go in the oven. Put the cake together as the layers
are finished. Let layers cool a couple of minutes in the pans. Run a spatula around the edge of
the pan and ease the layer out of the pan. Don’t worry if it tears; no one will notice when the
cake is finished. Use two and three serving spoonfuls of icing between each layer.
Cover the top and sides of the cake with the rest of the icing. Push icing that runs onto the plate
back onto the cake.

Smith Island Cake Recipe: visitsomerset.com

Cream Cheese Frosting:

  • 2 sticks of butter, softened (room temperature)
  • 8 oz cream cheese, softened 
  • 3 cups powdered sugar
  • 2 tsp vanilla extract

Cream the butter and cream cheese together; gradually add sugar. Stir in vanilla.

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Lillian Lottier’s Tropicaroma Cake

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Before the internet and magazines boasted millions of novel (and disposable) recipes, newspapers were a valuable source for recipes that could become staples in a household. With that in mind, I’m hoping to source more entries from newspaper recipes.

This one was shared in 1939 in the Afro-American by Lillian Lottier, prominent Baltimorean, teacher, activist, and columnist for that paper.

Lottier’s “Royal Tropicaroma Cake” was first popularized in “The Royal Guide to Meal Planning” in 1929 as “Tropic Aroma” cake. I expected pineapples & bananas but this is actually more of a spice cake complimented with coffee and chocolate.

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Baltimore Afro-American, 1939, referencing Lillian Lottier’s husband’s employer

Lillian, born in 1881, was the daughter of Reverend Reuben Armstrong, who came to Baltimore from Harrisburg, PA to become pastor of historically black Madison Avenue Presbyterian Church from 1897 to 1904. According to the church’s website, the ministry of Armstrong was “riveted in the policies of black middle classness and intellectualism. [He] encouraged and sponsored ecumenical involvement, wholesome cooperation, and cultural activities – including forums and literary and musical programs.”

It was from this tradition that Lillian Lottier dedicated herself to a life of working for civil rights and social progress. In 1924, Lottier served as the first female president of the Baltimore NAACP. There she “led the Branch for only a single term but made a tremendous statement and mark on the Branch and the City of Baltimore.” She was a founding member of the Baltimore Urban League, and remained active with that organization as well as the Women’s Presbyterian Society.

Her social activism gives an insight into the interest of female members of the NAACP. She was a long-time member of the United Protestant group in Baltimore that raised funds for inter-church meetings and charity work starting in 1933 and was executive officer by World War II. During the great depression Lottier was a member of National Negro Congress and was a publicity officer for its Baltimore branch, spearheading campaigns to end racial discrimination in employment, targeting large corporations such as Consolidated Gas, Electric Light, and Power Company [now BGE].” – Borders of Equality: The NAACP and the Baltimore Civil Rights Struggle, 1914-1970

Outside of her own column, Lillian Lottier merited frequent mentions in the Afro-American due to her active involvement in the PTA of several Baltimore schools. Her namesake daughter, Lillian Lottier Bolden (1918-2000) was an educator herself, who taught physically and mentally challenged students in Baltimore City.

Teachers participated in a wide range of efforts to promote democracy, reform curricula, organize communities, and mentor young civil rights activists.  Their engagement, both in the public sphere and behind the scenes, has shaped and influenced the Civil Rights Movement.” – Teachers in the Movement: A civil rights oral history project

Reading through Lottier’s columns in the Afro-American is a reminder of the diverse viewpoints among those working for civil rights. “Borders of Equality” described some of her activism with contraception as being “in the vein of the middle-class progressive urge of the era,” and some of Lottier’s views might not seem progressive those with a modern view of civil rights causes.

Nonetheless, her column is an interesting insight into the generation that laid the groundwork for the civil rights activism of the 1960s. In one spirited column she decries a preacher making a flirtatious “remark” to a parishioner. She passionately censures this affront to morality. Despite the amount of words dedicated to this outrage, the “remark” seems to be lost to time. I for one feel cheated.

Now, she’s a person that puzzles me. I have often wondered whether she is a saint or a sinner. There are times when she seems pious enough to be a cardinal, and there are times when she seems to have a devil-may-care glint in her eye and a ‘Come-on, I-dare’ look in her face.” – 1930 Afro-American column about Lillian Lottier

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1957

Lillian was married to George V. Lottier, a postal worker. Although he was involved with the YMCA and a writers group called the “Scribblers,” he does not appear to have been as outspoken as his wife. The family lived at 1509 Druid Hill Avenue in the Upton neighborhood.

Even though this sex of ours has convincingly demonstrated our ability to compete successfully with men in almost every phase of life, there are still a few dull-witted, pig-headed, narrow-minded males left for whom we welcome additional proof.” – Lillian Lottier, 1926

The frequent Afro-American coverage of Lillian Lottier’s active life began to taper off in the 1950s. An avid-reader, she remained active in book clubs and celebrated milestones in the lives of her four children. In 1957 the Lottiers’ 50th anniversary is celebrated in the paper. Lillian passed away in 1976 with little fanfare. A Baltimore Sun obituary states that in addition to her four children, she was survived by twelve-grandchildren and fifteen great-grandchildren.

At the best our gain in knowledge during a short life-time is but partial and limited, and it does seem a shame to waste any precious hours in willful blindness and self-deception.

Let it be our earnest desire… to do our feebly best to live fully, deeply, richly, and in accordance with the Creator’s wonderful purpose for mankind.” – Lillian Lottier, 1926

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Recipe:

  • .75 Cup butter
  • 1.25 Cup sugar
  • 2 egg
  • 2.5 Cup flour
  • 4 Teaspoon baking powder
  • .25 Teaspoon salt
  • 1 Teaspoon nutmeg
  • 1 Teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1 Cup milk
  • 1 Tablespoon cocoa
  • 1 Tablespoon boiling water

For icing:

  • 2 Tablespoon butter
  • 2 Cup sugar, powdered
  • 1 Tablespoon cocoa
  • 1 Tablespoon vanilla extract
  • 1 Tablespoon strong coffee

Cream butter; add sugar a little at a time followed by well beaten eggs, mixing thoroughly.

Sift flour, salt, baking powder and spices together. Add a little of the dry ingredients to the first mixture; slowly add milk followed by remaining dry ingredients.

Pour two-thirds of this batter into two greased and floured layer tins.

To remaining third of batter, add 1 tablespoon cocoa mixed with 1 tablespoon of boiling water. Use this batter for middle layer.

Bake layers at 375 F for 15-20 minutes. Put the filling and icing between layers and on top and sides of the cake.

Filling/Icing: Cream butter and add sugar and cocoa very slowly, beating until light and fluffy. Slowly add vanilla and coffee until soft enough to spread.

Recipe adapted from “Cake for a Postman,” Baltimore Afro-American newspaper, 1939

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