Maryland Fried Chicken

Through the years, Maryland whiskey has become almost as renowned as Maryland fried chicken.” – Maryland: A Guide to the Old Line State, Writers’ Program of the Works Progress Administration, 1940

In July 1945, war correspondent Ollie Stewart wrote to the Afro American of the frenzied scene in Berlin as American soldiers had raided Hitler’s “medal room” for souvenirs while the Russians looked on, laughing. “We must have looked silly as hell,” the journalist remarked.

Stewart left Berlin for Paris, where he’d just missed a banquet for the leaders of the Red Cross. The seven-course feast was served by an all-black staff – a new and novel experience for the Frenchmen. Although Stewart was at a loss to recall the full menu, owing to “so much French in the darn thing,” one dish stood out as “the big noise”: “Poulet frit Maryland.”

According to Stewart, the dish set a new standard for Parisian chefs. Some of them asked him “where is this place, Maryland?” The Afro-American shared the anecdote under the headline: “Maryland Gains Fame.”

Of all of the forgotten Maryland recipes, Maryland Fried Chicken may be the most misunderstood. It may even be impossible to understand. Since its nebulous inception, there has been little agreement on just what constitutes “Maryland Fried Chicken,” also known as “Fried Chicken, Maryland Style,” or sometimes “Chicken a la Maryland.” See? There isn’t even agreement on what to call it.

Continue reading “Maryland Fried Chicken”

Interview: Erick Sahler Serigraphs Co.

The artwork in this interview really speaks for itself but for
the sake of having an introduction I’ll mention that I came across
these Erick Sahler Serigraphs Co. prints at one
of the newer bookshops
in Chincoteague this past August. In a few short
moments I’d stocked up on postcards and a perceptive saleswoman sold me
on a print.
A bold graphic rendering of Smith Island cake has got to have some type of neurological effect on me. Resistance is futile.
Noticing how these prints celebrate so much of Old Line Plate subject matter, I hit Erick up for an interview.

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“Most people believe the place they live is special, and I
appreciate that, but after traveling all across the United States, I
feel the Eastern Shore truly is unique.” 

Did you have any formal art training?

I
like to make things — art, music, videos, anything, really, that
satisfies my creative itch. I trained with Chesapeake Bay maritime
artist C. Keith Whitelock when I was growing up, and that was the spark
that ignited my passion for the Eastern Shore. I got on-the-job training
designing and making silkscreen prints for Chesapeake Screen Printing
during my high school and college years. I graduated in 1989 from UMBC,
where I studied graphic design, illustrating and lettering before the
era of computers.

It’s
interesting that you have decided to pursue your work on the Eastern
Shore where so many other artists might have gravitated to major
metropolitan areas or what have you. Can you talk some about your
decision to settle in Salisbury?

After
my first year of college, I dreamed of working for an advertising
agency on Madison Avenue. After my second year of college, I decided
working for an advertising agency in Baltimore would be a better fit.
After my third year of college, I longed to come home, to return to the
Shore. Most people believe the place they live is special, and I
appreciate that, but after traveling all across the United States, I
feel the Eastern Shore truly is unique. So many others agree, and I
believe that’s why my artwork resonates — it’s a reminder of all the
good things about life on the Delmarva Peninsula. I can’t imagine living
or making art any place else.

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I
see on your site that you have been at it for some time, but I only
became aware of your work recently. Has anything changed or have you
been creating more retail products or something? I swear I used to have
the hardest time finding really good postcards on Chincoteague and the
Eastern Shore!

I’ve
been creating Eastern Shore-themed silkscreen prints and stationery
since the summer of 2011. Prior to that, I worked 22 years in the
newsroom of the Salisbury paper. When the recession hit and the
newspaper industry began circling the drain, I decided it was time for
Plan B. I was in my mid-40s and figured if I was ever to strike out as
an artist, the time was now. My family supported me, and after two years
of planning, researching and building a print shop over my garage, I
gave my notice and launched a new career. Ever since, I’ve worked
full-time (and then some) designing, printing, packaging, framing,
marketing, shipping, accounting — every aspect of the business. I’m a
one-man shop.

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Any particular influences on your style? A lot of it reminds me somewhat of WPA park posters.

Yes,
definitely the WPA artists of the late 1930s. Those designs were also
printed using silkscreens, so the process and style are similar. I’ve
been a lifelong fan of Joseph Craig English, who makes incredible
silkscreen prints of scenes in the Washington, D.C. area. I’m a great
fan of Norman Rockwell, for his ability to tell the great stories of
regular Americans. I also find great inspiration in the simple but
powerful work turned out for decades by Hatch Show Print in Nashville.  

Can
you talk some about your inspiration process — some of the art appears
to have been originally commissioned or created to a specific end but
some of it seems like random appreciation.

You
are correct. I set out to produce nine or 10 new editions each year.
Most of those are targeted to certain markets or events. I have great
dealers in Chincoteague, Cambridge, Oxford, Berlin and Snow Hill, all of
whom I try to keep happy with fresh stock. I’m also involved in some
fantastic shows in Oxford and Bethany Beach, which I create new work for
each year. So the market does drive the subject matter, to some extent.
But it’s not all business, and a number of pieces were created from my
desire to celebrate what’s close to my heart. The Stock Car Races print
is one. The old Memorial Stadium print is another.

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Are you a big Smith Island Cake fan? If so, what flavor is the best?

I’m
a traditionalist — I prefer the yellow cake with chocolate icing, like
the one in my print. But the carrot cake version is pretty fine too.

How often do you eat scrapple?

As often as possible! Brisk fall mornings are perfect for scrapple. I like it on toast with scrambled egg and melted cheese.

In
all seriousness though, you have several prints based around the local
edible specialties, care to comment any further on what these things
mean to you either as graphic inspiration or even personally?

Tracy,
my wife, is a foodie. Each summer we travel across the U.S. with our
two girls and a big dog-eared book called “Road Food” by Michael and
Jane Stern. We have driven hours off the main route for a pile of ribs,
or barbecue, or even some hot dogs. So we really appreciate local food —
and usually the more low-brow, the better. That’s what initially drove
my “Delmarva’s Finest” collection, which features blue crabs,
Chincoteague and Choptank oysters and Smith Island Cake. My Scrapple
design — a parody of the Apple Computer logo — was a one-off for the
annual Apple-Scrapple Festival in Bridgeville, Del.

Your
postcards/posters nearly create a travel brochure for Delmarva. Can you
outline an ideal day or weekend spent traveling around the region?

You
can travel one hour from Salisbury in any direction and be in heaven.
Rehoboth, Bethany, Ocean City, Assateague, Chincoteague, Onancock,
Crisfield, Deal Island, Hooper Island, Cambridge, Oxford, St. Michaels.
Take your pick — and they all have dynamite places to eat along the way.
My don’t-misses would include a pint of Indian Brown Ale at Dogfish
Head in Milton, Del.; Thrasher’s french fries on the Ocean City
Boardwalk; scoops of Java Jolt and Marsh Mud at the Island Creamery in
Chincoteague, Va.; the flounder platter at Metompkin Seafood in
Mappsville, Va.; the Buffalo wings at Adam’s Taphouse in Fruitland, Md.;
and a maple doughnut at Bay Country Bakery in Cambridge.

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I see you have a Chesapeake Retriever — Maryland pride or just by chance?

That’s
funny — his name is Chance. I was a UMBC Retriever, but actually my
fondness for Chessies goes way back. My “Offseason” print shows me with
our Chesapeake Bay retriever on the beach at 53rd Street in Ocean City
in the spring of 1972. They’re a great breed — smart, loyal, independent
— and a perfect fit for life on the Eastern Shore.You can’t keep them
out of the water.

View more artwork, buy prints or contact Erick Sahler at www.ericksahler.com

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Maryland Fried Chicken II: That Steaming Thing

“The disservice done the public by commercially fried chicken is perpetuating the fallacy that Southern fried, by definition, is crisp, crunchy, and deep fried. There is more to it than that, for there are other ways to fry a chicken.

So how does a Southerner fry chicken at home? He coats the disjointed chicken with seasoned flour and browns it in hot shortening or oil on both sides. Now for the decision: to crisp or not to crisp? With lid on and heat lowered, the chicken becomes meltingly tender, not the least bit crisp, and as Southern as any other. This can be carried a step further when the chicken is done, excess fat may be poured off, and a little water added. Lid on again for five minutes of steam, and there’s Southern fried fit for the gods.” – Southern Heritage Cookbook Library, “Plain & Fancy Poultry”

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This week we will revisit Maryland Fried Chicken, briefly, to try out the dreaded “steaming” step.

First I will say that contrary to the above Southern Heritage quote, the steam step is far from conclusive.

I started to make a spreadsheet to track this. Here’s what I have so far:

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I also cross-referenced my two favorite Virginia cooks, Mary Randolph (1824) and Edna Lewis (1976) and found them both serving their fried chicken with cream gravy.

According to The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani “The idea of making a sauce to go with fried chicken must have occurred early on, at least in Maryland, where such a match came to be known as “Maryland fried chicken.” By 1878 a dish by this name was listed on the menu of the Grand Union hotel in Saratoga, New York…“ (source) No mention of steaming. 

This Serious Eats post explores the same subject, delving into whether to add that water to the pan, and coming to the conclusion “I don’t think [adding water is] a great idea, and I also don’t think it’s necessary: covering the pan for a portion of the frying traps more than enough of the steam generated by the chicken without pouring in additional water. I have a few theories about what this covering/steaming step accomplishes, the main one being that it helps the chicken cook more evenly despite its not being fully submerged in oil. “

Their final conclusion is: “Covering and steaming may seem antithetical to the goals of frying, but it’s pretty amazing how crispy the chicken ends up after the final minutes of cooking while uncovered.”

So its obvious that many Maryland cooks counted this step as a necessary part of their chicken cooking. I tried it and I found it tasty.. I mean it is fried chicken. It wasn’t as crispy but there was still a crispiness to the skin, and the meat was great. I think that tender fried chicken can be achieved without the water by attentive cooks and proper brining.

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Recipe:

  • 1 Cup flour
  • 1 Teaspoon salt
  • .25 Teaspoon paprika
  • 2.5 Lb cut up chicken, broiler-fryer
  • oil, vegetable
  • .25 Cup water
  • 1 Tablespoon butter
  • 1 Cup milk

Combine first three ingredients in a plastic or paper bag; shake to mix. Place two or three pieces of chicken in the bag; shake well. Repeat procedure with remaining chicken. Reserve two tablespoons of flour mixture for the gravy.

Heat ½ inch of oil in a large skillet to 325; add chicken. Cover, and cook 7 minutes. Turn chicken; cover, and cook an additiona 7 minutes. Reduce heat; drain off oil, reserving two tablespoons of oil and the chicken in skillet. Add water to skillet; cover and continue cooking over low heat 20 minutes or until tender. Drain chicken on paper towels; transfer to a warmed serving platter.

Add butter to pan drippings, and melt. Scrape sides of skillet with a wooden spoon to loosen browned crumbs. Gradually add reserved flour mixture, stirring until smooth. Cook 1 minute, stirring constantly. Gradually add milk; cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until thickened and bubbly. Serve gravy with chicken.

Adapted from “The Southern Heritage Plain and Fancy Poultry Cookbook,” 1983

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I suppose my next step would be to try the side-by-side comparison. I may have exhausted all possible chicken talk so please follow the Old Line Place Facebook page or twitter if you want to be updated on how that goes – or try it yourself and tell me about it!

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Maryland Fried Chicken: lets do this

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Much like scrapple, Maryland fried chicken is a topic that I intend to revisit on Old Line Plate many times. There’s a lot of background, a lot of recipes, and enough confusion to go around.

So what IS “Maryland fried chicken”?

There is a European dish known as Chicken Maryland or Chicken a la Maryland, usually featuring bananas. This is probably the dish that is now famously known to have been on the menu of the Titanic.

There is a vanishing regional chain (outside of Maryland) known as Maryland Fried Chicken. Their main website is now shilling viagra and I never had the chance to try this chicken.

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There are also some who would insist that Old Bay is essential to Maryland fried chicken. Old Bay and chicken make a fine combo but that is the kind of myopic thinking this blog stands firmly against.

There is also a controversial, questionable step included in some Maryland fried chicken recipes that flies in the face of modern fried chicken preference. That step entails steaming the chicken in the pan after frying it. This results in a very tender chicken but eliminates the crispiness. Sacrilege to some!

Fear not, that step is not essential. I am not sure when it became popularized but BC Howard’s book “Fifty Years in a Maryland Kitchen” mentions no such thing. It appears in two of the five fried chicken recipes in Eat, Drink and Be Merry in Maryland. 

In my estimation, the main defining characteristic of Maryland fried chicken is the pan scraping cream gravy. Fried chicken is served up in this manner throughout the South but various sources throughout the years offer this style as “Maryland fried chicken.”

My primary source for cooking this time was ‘50 Years in a Maryland Kitchen’. I also referenced the recipes that appear in ‘Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland.’

Albert H. McCarthy of Carvel Hall Hotel (erstwhile and now once again the Paca House) contributed the instructions:

“Cut young chicken into pieces and rub with salt, pepper and flour. Fry in hot fat to half cover the chicken until right brown. Serve with a cream gravy and waffles.”

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BC Howard included a step which I feel is indispensable – brining the chicken. Her brine consisted solely of salt and water but I took a cue from my modern reference, a book called “Heritage” by Sean Brock.

I checked this book out from the library and it is beautiful but a lot of the cooking is fussy for my purposes. However, the author seems charming and gained my trust so I went with his brine which contains salt, sugar, and the secret ingredient of tea. He pan fried the chicken in many fats and topped it with the gravy (no mention of Maryland…)

The resulting chicken was very good but to my surprise it tasted like tea. (I’m not the brightest..)

In the future, to make sure that I enjoy the most Maryland flavor in my chicken I will probably stick with a salt & sugar brine only.

My next iteration of Maryland Fried Chicken will include the steaming step and a discussion of those who employed it throughout my recipe collection.

Maybe we can decide once and for all whether it is worth the sacrifice of crispiness – or perhaps whether there is room for both in life.

Recipe:

  • 1 gallon water
  • 38 tea bags (optional! or use less!)
  • 1 cup salt
  • 1 cup sugar
  • salt
  • pepper, black
  • flour
  • fat (oil, lard, bacon fat, etc.)
  • chicken
  • more salt
  • more flour
  • butter
  • cream
  • parsley

Put the water in a pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the stove, add the tea bags, and let them steep for 8 minutes. Remove the tea bags, or strain the liquid if you used loose tea. Add the salt and sugar to the hot water and stir to dissolve them. Pour the brine into a heatproof container and cool it to room temperature, then refrigerate until completely cold.

Cut the chicken into 8 pieces. Rinse with cold water. Place in the brine, cover, and
refrigerate for 12 hours.

After the chicken has spent 12 hours in the brine, make an ice bath in a
large bowl with equal amounts of ice and water. Place the chicken in
the ice bath for 5 minutes. (the ice will rinse away any impurities.)
Remove the chicken and pat it dry.

Season the chicken with pepper and then cover with flour (lightly salted). Cook bacon in skillet and set aside. Add additional oils until frying temperature and add the chicken pieces, turning and stirring them about to keep them from burning. It takes half an hour. Move to a towel to drain. Pour off off all the fat and melt a tablespoon or so of butter with an equal amount of flour. Add cream, parsley, salt and pepper. Stir until thickened. Pour this over the chickens and serve with waffles.

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note: due to the tea this chicken looks much darker than it would otherwise

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Adapted from ‘Eat, Drink and Be Merry in Maryland’, ‘Fifty Years in a Maryland Kitchen’, ‘Heritage.’

Washington City Paper: The Mystery of Maryland Fried Chicken

Mid-Atlantic Cooking Blog: Maryland Fried Chicken

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