Corn Pudding, Betty Worthington Briscoe

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I don’t know about you but I’m not through with corn just yet. You can hold the pumpkin until I’m done scraping kernels from the last fresh cob I can find.
I like to broil it (or grill it) and add it to things or freeze for later. This time I opted for a plain corn pudding to best utilize the taste of the flame-caramelized corn.

I found a recipe in “Maryland’s Way” care of Betty Worthington Briscoe. The Briscoe name can be found throughout Southern Maryland in the descendants of some of Maryland’s original volonists as well as the descendants of people who had been enslaved at plantations such as Sotterly.

In this case, the branch of the family in question resided in Calvert County where the father of Everard Briscoe was a physician. Everard too would become a physician, marrying Harriett Elizabeth “Betty” Worthington in 1923 and moving to Baltimore. The family was prominent in Maryland, frequently mentioned in the Baltimore Sun as well as newspapers in Washington County where Betty was from.

The daughter of a well-known railroad conductor (who had a route from Hagerstown to Baltimore), Betty had received a degree from what is now Towson University. Although she never used her teaching degree until after her husband’s sudden 1944 passing, she did lots of other work from serving the Red Cross to being the secretary of the Calvert County Historical Society. She wrote a weekly column in the Calvert Independent newspaper called “Know Your County.” The column has served as a resource, especially for the Maryland Historical Trust’s cataloging of historically significant structures in the region.

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Old Field, Maryland Historical Trust

One such structure was the home that Betty and Everard eventually resided in, known as “Old Field.” It had been built in 1891 by Everard’s uncle, Judge John Parran Briscoe, “a prominent judge in the Maryland Circuit Court and Court of Appeals.” Everard Briscoe practiced medicine in the downstairs of the large home.

Still residing at Old Fields, Betty died in 1981 at age 79. Shortly after, the house (presumably the doctor’s office portion) was converted into a restaurant. According to “A Taste of History: A Guide to Historic Eateries and Their Recipes” by Debbie Nunley and Karen Jane Elliott, the restaurant served a cake named in Betty’s honor.

It was really only natural that corn should find it’s way into pudding. Pudding is THE most time-honored British-descended American food tradition. (I need to write a whole thing about that eventually…) While rice pudding still lives on, the often-less-sweet corn pudding is somewhat more obscure. It’s a shame because this versatile dish can make a great side, dessert, or even a main dish with a little creativity. You could top it with hot sauce, honey, or both for that matter. It’s a good way to transition away from fresh summer goodness into the warm, goopy dishes of fall.

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Recipe:

2 eggs
1 Teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon flour
1 Teaspoon sugar
1 Cup milk
1 Cup grated corn
butter

Beat eggs. Add salt, flour and sugar; then whisk in the milk and corn. Pour into a greased baking dish and dot with butter. Bake at 350° oven until it is solid but wobbly, about 45 minutes.

Recipe adapted from “Maryland’s Way: The Hammond-Harwood House Cookbook”

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Indian Pudding, Misses Lelia and Alice Taney

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From 1896 to until 1954, they never really accepted the doctrine of “separate but equal” to which they now look back with so much longing.
They embraced the “separate” all right, but with stubborn consistency rejected the “equal.”
One gathers the impression that the only decision which has ever won their wholehearted approval was that of Chief Justice Roger B. Taney in the celebrated Dred Scott case.
Mr. Taney’s court held that in America a colored man has no rights which a white man under the law is bound to respect.
That was back in March 6, 1857.
The “Southern Manifesto” shows that almost a century later their thinking hasn’t changed one whit.
“ – The Baltimore Afro-American March 1956

This unremarkable recipe for “Indian Pudding” was contributed to “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland” by The Misses Alice and Lelia Taney of Frederick County. Their claim to fame is their relation to infamous Marylander Roger Brooke Taney, Chief Justice of the Supreme Court from 1836 until his death in 1864.

The newspaper mentions I found featuring these two ladies consisted primarily of their obituaries or stories about the unveiling of various statues of Taney that were erected in Maryland.

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A 1937 story in the Afro-American

While my grade-school education on the Dred Scott decision didn’t center much on Taney himself, a friend from Frederick explained it to me as it was taught to him in school: Taney, being the very opposite of an “activist judge” was interpreting the law as was his duty, and was not necessarily a racist or pro-slavery. He had, after all, manumitted his own slaves.

Many older articles in Maryland papers espouse that view of Taney.  As recently as 1993, the Sun ran an editorial, “Happy Birthday Taney,” with the concluding statement that Sun staffer Theo Lippman Jr. “understand[s] why black Americans hate Taney, but we all need to remember
two things. (1) There was more to him than Dred Scott. (2) Dred Scott
probably advanced the timetable for emancipation by at least a
generation.

Afro-American, 1957 (Dred Scott Decision centennial)

Many lamented that the statement about black people having “no rights which the white man was bound to respect” was taken out of context by misinformed “northern writers.” It is true that he was referring to the sentiment at the time of the writing of the Constitution. His ruling, however, in effect sustained that sentiment.

In 1986, Grason Eckel of Cambridge wrote in to the Sun suggesting
removal of the Taney statue in front of the state house:

Though couched
in legal terms, Taney’s Dred Scott opinion contained a moral dimension
that repudiated society’s responsibility for the civil rights of blacks.
The opinion, therefore, became a symbol of shame.
“ – Get Rid of Taney’s Statue, June 1986

In addition to statues, Taney has had some streets and such named in his honor, including a middle school in Camp Springs, Prince George’s County. This school faced turmoil after integration.

To date the school athletic teams have been known as the Rebels, and the school emblem has been a confederate flag.
Integration at Taney – January 29 the school changed from about 99 per cent white to 20 per cent black – has been among the most touchy jobs facing the county school system…
Taney almost closed last month after a rock-throwing racial melee involving about 200 of the school’s 1,136 students.
“ – Baltimore Sun, “Taney is Still Shaky with Race Tension”, April 1973

The president of the PTA dismissed the black students’ desire to change the name of the athletic team, under the basis that “they only number 20 percent of the student body [therefore] they would get voted down if they took a vote on the name.”  I am not sure when the team name changed but the school’s name was changed in the 1990s. By then the student body was 83% black.

The Afro-American offers multi-faceted views of Taney. One article quotes him as saying:

Slavery is a blot upon our national character, and every real lover of freedom confidentially hopes that it will be effectively wiped away. And until the time shall come when we can point without a blush to the language held in the Declaration of Independence, every friend of humanity will seek to lighten the galling chains of slavery.“ – Roger Brooke Taney, 1818

“Not until we read Henrietta Buckmaster’s new book, “Let My People Go,” did we realize that Judge Taney, an old scoundrel, was quite a decent individual in his younger days,” noted the 1941 editorial.

The quote at the beginning of this entry was one of many which bitterly recalled the Dred Scott ruling and its dehumanizing language as Jim Crow and civil rights struggles continued.

Afro-American, 1957 (Dred Scott Decision centennial)

As for Alice and Lelia, it is possible that at least one of them resided at the Roger Brooke Taney House in Frederick, or that their parents did. Although Roger Brooke Taney once owned this property, he never actually lived there. An illustration of the “Taney Kitchen” in “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland” appears to be of that house. The historical home is open to the public and conducts hearth demonstrations that look far more delicious than this pudding.

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Recipe:

  • 1 Quart milk, scalded
  • cornmeal
  • .5 tsp salt
  • 1.5 teaspoon ginger
  • .5 cupmolasses
  • 2 tb butter

Scald milk. Stir in enough cornmeal to make a thin mush. Add salt, ginger, molasses, and butter. Bake in a tin or earthen pan for two hours.

Recipe adapted from “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland”

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Pudding of Split Rusks w/ Wine Sauce

“Eat, Drink and Be Merry in Maryland” again. This bread pudding comes care of Mrs. William D. Poultney.

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According to the Maryland Historical Society:

“The Poultney family were descendants of Ellen North, said to be the first Anglo-American child born in the area that is now Baltimore. Thomas Poultney, Sr. (1826-1887) was a writer under the name Rabbi Ben Tomi. He married Susan Carroll, daughter of Charles Carroll, and their children included Evan, Thomas Jr., and C. Carroll Poultney. Evan Poultney (d. 1940, age 86) was a founder and the first president of the old Baltimore Club, with an avid interest in amateur theatrics. While attending Harvard University (from which he graduated in 1875), he was a member of the Hasty Pudding Club, and in Baltimore he supported the Paint and Powder Club.”

I had no idea what the Hasty Pudding Club was but apparently there WAS actual pudding involved. I’m not sure where William Poultney fits into that family but I’m sure that the love of pudding is in their blood.

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Mr. Charles Parkhurst, director of the Baltimore Museum of art, chats with Mrs. William D. Poultney, a lender, and Mr. William C. Whitridge, a trustee of the museum, at preview of Maryland furniture of Queen Anne and Chippendale periods. (ebay)

Bread pudding comes in many forms in my household due to the leftover stale baguette segments or other bread leftover from sandwiches. Sweet bread pudding is more rare.
For this pudding I purchased some “rusks” at Punjab. I’ve always seen them there and wondered “what is the deal with ‘rusks’?” Well here is everything you want to know about rusks but didn’t care enough to ask:
Rusks are a twice-baked bread or biscuits. Popular in India for dipping into tea. Rusks are not biscotti but biscotti are maybe rusks? Okay that’s enough.
I wasn’t sure quite how to follow this recipe. Should the whites be mixed in before pouring over the rusks? I don’t know. It turned out okay. I added additional lemon peel on the top which was kind of moronic because it browned in the oven and looked like little dirt pellets.

Pudding will come back to haunt Old Line Plate many times, especially when I undertake some campfire cooking. Pudding is an early American staple and longtime favorite of famously English origin.

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For the wine sauce I cross-referenced my Southern Heritage cookbook library as well as a different recipe in EDBMiM and whipped something together. There is never any reason why I would have some extra red wine around my household. However, I was visiting a friend who was trying out this weird non-alcholic red wine recently. No one really liked it so I took it home knowing I would find some use for it in the kitchen. Voila.
The pudding was kind of dry so I kept pouring more milk on it whenever I’d heat up a serving.

Pudding of Split Rusks:

  • 16 rusks
  • .25 Lb butter
  • .25 Lb almonds
  • 6 eggs
  • sugar
  • lemon peel

Pour some boiling milk over sixteen split rusks, then add a quarter pound of butter, a quarter pound of almonds, six eggs, sugar and lemon peel, and lastly add the whites of the eggs beaten to a froth. Bake and serve it up with a wine sauce.

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Wine sauce:

“One-quarter pound butter, six large tablespoonsful of brown sugar, one egg, one glass wine (or more). Beat butter and sugar to a cream, add egg and beat until light, put in wine gradually. Cook until thick and nearly boiling.Stir constantly.”

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