Puff Tuna Sandwich, Marian Barclift

For Marian Barclift, gratitude was a part of everyday life. She believed that finding and sharing joy would attract positivity into her life. The numerous friends, family, and coworkers who mourned her passing are evidence that it worked for her. She passed away on November 27th, 2009, the day after that year’s Thanksgiving.

Her Baltimore Sun obituary describes the success she had as a teacher at Pimlico Junior High School, where former principal Samuel R. Billups observed that “Marian had an awareness of students and their concerns, and she knew how to reach out to them and get them to put their best foot forward.”

The obituary described Barclift’s impactful career. From 1975 until her retirement in 1990, she worked as a guidance counselor at Western High School, where the National Honor Society was renamed the Marian H. Barclift National Honor Society chapter.

Barclift was also active in the Sharp Street United Methodist Church. She served as president of the Naylor Hughes Fellowship, a service group within the church that produced “Our Book of Favorite Recipes” in 1994. Marian contributed several healthful and low-calorie dishes to the cookbook.

Barclift’s Baltimore Sun obituary was a good source of information about her work life and her involvement at the church. But I have more to go on. Thanks to the Enoch Pratt Free Library African American Funeral Programs Collection, I know that Marian was “the baby” of five girls, the youngest daughter of a postal worker and a teacher, and that her father recited Paul Laurence Dunbar poetry to the little girl: “Little brown baby with sparkling eyes, come to your pappy and sit on his knee…” Fittingly sweet words spoken to a person who later “radiated warmth in her lifetime relationships with her family and friends.”

Enoch Pratt Free Library
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Shad Roe Bánh Mì..

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Around this weekend every year since 2012, I host a “Maryland Spring Breakfast” where some friends and I enjoy shad roe while it’s in season and (for me at least) get into the spring spirit. Winter has been lingering here but it feels like it “broke” this past week and we’re all ready to swap coats for jackets, boots for shoes, and hot coffee for iced.

Despite my obsession with Maryland food, one of my favorite cookbook authors specializes in Vietnamese food. Through her writing and videos, Andrea Nguyen has helped me along as a cook, providing skills, ideas and ingredients that carry with me when I cook Maryland food. 

When she authored a book that was dedicated to banh mi this past year I pre-ordered it, eagerly awaited it and used it as inspiration for delicious sandwich creation all summer long.

As she is known to fearlessly experiment with American and Vietnamese food herself, I felt inspired to try a little fusing. After three years of cooking shad roe with bacon I feel ready to branch out, and besides that a few of my friends don’t eat meat.

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Shad roe has a love-it-or-hate-it funk to it that gave me the idea to use it as a liver pâté substitute. I simmered minced shallot, five-spice powder, fish sauce and the roe in a generous amount of butter. I then broke up the roe sacs and added cognac and mixed it all up. I stored it lined with bay leaves overnight. I had hoped that the extra butter would make it a little more spreadable but it turned out a little dry and crumbly.

As I’d made other fillings and condiments from her book, the roe is seen here with edamame pâté (along with some homemade spicy sesame-lime mayo & some Maggi).

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“The Banh Mi Handbook“ features a recipe for enhancing canned sardines that come in tomato sauce. I bought a can of tomato sauce and used this basic concept for the shad. Shad is a terribly bony fish but when you steam shad for five hours you can eat the bones. So I did that to make them sandwich ready. I added the can of tomato sauce during the last hour. That was the day before. Day of, I sauteed some shallots, added the pan liquid and then warmed up the shad in that liquid. The result was a good but not overpowering sandwich filler. It could have been more flavorful or perhaps some Vietnamese sausage would make a nice addition. We had some fried tofu and eggplant options as well. (I stuck with a pescetarian friendly menu.)

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Along with the usual suspects: cucumber, jalapeños, do chua, sriracha, cilantro.. we had some very tasty little sandwiches.

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I made a version of Maryland White Potato Pie using condensed milk, honey, seasoned with citrus & nutmeg and using some extra egg whites leftover from the mayonnaise, beaten and folded in. The result was perhaps the most moist version of this pie I have made.

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That stray piece of cilantro is driving me nuts but I wasn’t focused on food styling today, I was focused on delicious food, making traditions, and the company of friends.

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