Vinegar Candy, The Oriole Cookbook

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Vinegar is one of those culinary facts of life that existed for thousands of years before being truly understood. (Some probiotics enthusiasts might say that we still don’t truly understand vinegar.) With the ability to sterilize, preserve, and add flavor, vinegar has been made all over the world with as many source ingredients as can be imagined. Of these, the gold standard at the turn of the 20th century was Apple Cider Vinegar, especially in Maryland.

Home-made vinegar was certainly a simple option – there are instructions in Mary Lloyd Tyson’s 1870 “Queen of the Kitchen” for making vinegar with cider, fermented preserves, whiskey, and molasses. “This is an excellent receipt.”

Newspapers of the time offered similar instructions. They also printed many questions and theories on vinegar. “What makes vinegar sharp?” Does more surface area make better vinegar? Are vinegar eels good or bad for the flavor of the vinegar?

Flavor and sharpness aside, these were no trivial matters. With food poisoning so prevalent, the acidity and purity of vinegar could be a matter of life & death.

The Cecil Whig in Elkton reported in 1872 that “probably not one-half of what is sold as cider-vinegar ever had its origin in an apple tree.”

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Gooseberry Chutnee, An East India Receipt

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More preservation tactics of Mrs. B.C. Howard née Jane Gilmor, this time in the form of chutney.
Mrs. Howard has a number of Indian recipes in her cookbook, including three “East India Receipt”s for chutneys and pickled lemons.

She also includes a curry, a recipe for “Binderloo”, and “Indian Pilau.” From my modern vantage point they instill a kind of trust in her tastes and experience, although for the time they’re not entirely atypical.
The Bristish ‘Thacker, Spink & Company’ published a book on Indian Cookery the year before “Fifty Years in a Maryland Kitchen” came out. A sophisticated lady like Mrs. Howard may have come across these Indian-via-Britain recipes through friends, family or servants.

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Gooseberries were unfamiliar to me before this undertaking. Some say that this “old world” fruit are so-named because they are served with goose. Wikipedia suggests that the name may just be an “etymological corruption.”

Also: “Gooseberry bush” was 19th-century slang for pubic hair, and from this comes the saying that babies are “Born under a gooseberry bush.”

I got these berries from Reid’s Orchard and turned to my beloved Punjab Grocery for some ginger, garlic, and tamarind.

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There were no fresh tamarinds that day so I used paste – preserved tamarinds are possibly appropriate here, as I do not believe tamarinds to be cultivated in Maryland.
The package informed me that these tamarinds had been seeded but that was LIES and my food mill is lucky to be alive.

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The results are fantastically tangy and beg to accompany meats. I wonder if they would go well with binderloo?

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Recipe:

  • 2 Lb gooseberries
  • 1 Lb tamarind
  • .5 Lb sugar
  • .25 Lb raisins
  • .25 Lb ginger
  • .125 Lb garlic
  • .125 Lb mustard seed

Four pounds ripe gooseberries two pounds of tamarinds one pound of sugar half abound of raisins half a pound of ginger quarter of a pound of garlic quarter of a pound mustard seed Boil the gooseberries in a quart of vinegar with the sugar Grind the other ingredients with another bottle of vinegar and quarter of a pound of salt Mix with the fruit and boil for twenty minutes Let it cool then bottle for use.

Recipe halved from “Fifty Years in a Maryland Kitchen” By Mrs. B. C. Howard

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Soaking the weekend’s worth of garlic for easy peeling.

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This is staged – this is actually not an ideal way to use this attachment.

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Sick.

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Maryland Wineberry Shrub

There comes a time in the life of every seasonal fruit, when having been consumed to excess and then lent to some other assortment of creative uses, finally what is left of the fruit must be preserved. In modern times we have some options here. We have freezers and dehydrators, in addition to those methods of antiquity; preserving with sugar or pickling.
Another preservation method from antiquity is currently having its day (again) and that is the shrub.

“Shrub” can refer to a vinegar-based syrup made with fruit or herbs, or it can refer to a drink made from this syrup. In this case it will be fruit, substituting wineberries and blackberries for raspberries in Maryland Raspberry Shrub.

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