“If it wasn’t seafood it had to be venison which filled the larders of early settlers of Maryland.” – Geoff Fielding, Maryland magazine 1990
While oysters once captured the imagination and the economy of Maryland, the abundance of game played a vital role in keeping families fed. Deer, in particular, could provide a supply of meat well after domestic animals had been ‘harvested’ for the winter.
Even without the need for sustenance, hunting has been a popular past-time in Maryland. Sporty Theodore Roosevelt types would visit exclusive clubs where game was managed – and sometimes released into the wild – for the express purpose of hunting. Afterward, the hunters could retreat by the fireside in a luxurious lodge for fine food and of course liquor.
The Woodmont Rod & Gun Club in Western Maryland was only one such resort. Someone from that club contributed three recipes to “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland”: “English Pheasants,” “Wild Turkey,” and “Venison.”
Although it’s not as ubiquitous now, it’s still pretty likely that if you live in some of the more rural areas of the state, someone is trying to unload some deer meat on you this time of year.
Firearm season for white-tailed deer only lasts two weeks from Thanksgiving through mid-December, but the deer are quite abundant without other predators left.
Last year, during the combined archery, muzzleloader and firearm seasons, hunters harvested 84,022 deer. I recall a family friend from the Eastern Shore, out at a restaurant one February, excitedly ordering a steak, lamenting “I’m so tired of eating deer meat!”
Luckily for me, I don’t eat steak or deer enough to feel strongly about it. Recently when visiting family in Shady Side, I welcomed any cuts handed to me from a neighbor’s chest freezer that was piled high with game, dry-aged and vacuum sealed. For some, the sport and the culinary acumen go hand in hand.
Queen of the Kitchen, Miss M. L. Tyson
Most venison recipes are pretty similar. The main thing is the addition of fats to compensate for the leanness compared to domesticated meats.
The Woodmont Rod & Gun Club prescribes olive oil, butter, and grated onion. Miss M. L. Tyson recommends constant basting with butter. Some recipes include currant jelly.
Infuriatingly, the updated recipe in the “Maryland Gourmet” column in Maryland magazine has a caption that says they used beef steak!
*shake your fist at this*
So I just winged it. High heat in a skillet, bacon grease, frequent turning (yep), butter, deglazing the pan with a little wine after. It turned out great except that I should have cut the ring of fat from around the edge before cooking; it didn’t contribute much. (For me anyway. My dog disagrees.)
Every meat-eating Marylander should sidle up to a hunter. One man’s reprieve is another’s repast.
Recipe:
Heat skillet hot. Cut off the ring of fat from around the deer steak. Season with salt and pepper, etc. and immediately cook in hot grease, turning frequently. The internet says to cook it to 140°, I did about that and still managed a juicy interior – do not overcook.
