“Green Corn” in Imitation of Fried Oysters

Two gourmet sandwiches with cor fritters, caramelized onions, tomatoes, hot sauce and lettuce on toasted bread rolls

As a wise person once said:

“Green corn, we believe, is essentially a Maryland herb, for here only is it found in full perfection. Go south but a hundred leagues, and the best hotels will serve you corn that leaves a lingering feeling of imitation and inauthenticity. It is, as it were, a bit lousy. Go north, the same distance and you will find the green corn flabby and watery. Go west and it will disgust you utterly. In Maryland alone does it reach the flawless heights.” – Baltimore Sun, 1909 (via The Spokesman-Review)*

Green corn in this case probably means young corn. I wasn’t completely able to work that one out. However, there are many references to and recipes for “green corn” in old newspapers and cookbooks.
Most of them are positive but there is also this: During the “Maryland Campaign,” Confederate General Robert E. Lee’s first invasion of the North, many of his soldiers, after eating “green corn,” allegedly became ill with diarrhea en route to the bloody Battle of Antietam.
So like, green corn won the Civil War?

I came across this fritter recipe in a few places – first was “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland” as “Green Corn in Imitation of Fried Oysters” c/o Miss Rebecca Hollingsworth French of Washington County. They appear in “Maryland’s Way” as “Artificial Oysters” from “Aunt Ery.” I also came across them in a strange Baltimore Sun page in 1837:

Vintage newspaper page with recipes including Imitation Oysters made from corn, and historical notes from Civil War era publications.

Baltimore Sun Archives, September 23, 1837

I don’t know if the nubile young corn we got from One Straw Farm could qualify as this mystical “green corn” but I went for it anyway.
So the question now is.. did the result taste like oysters? Frankly, I didn’t get that. But they did make nice little sandwiches and snacks. You could really go any way with these.. part of a vegetarian meal, or in my case, make a sandwich, adding a little anchovy sauce to the bread for some umami of the sea. Still cheaper than real oysters, after all.
I guess the other question is.. did we feel any, uh…. less ready to face our foes in the battlefield? Thankfully, no. We survived with innards un-afflicted.

Fresh corn ears with husks next to vintage Green Corn fried oyster recipe from historic cookbook on wooden surface

Recipe:

  • 2 cups of young corn, cooked, grated from cob & mashed
  • 3 tb flour
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 1 tsp salt
  • Pinch each of black & cayenne pepper
  • Butter or oil for frying

Mix together first 5 ingredients. Fry in shallow oil or butter until golden brown on each side.

Recipe adapted from “Maryland’s Way” & “Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Maryland”

Fresh white corn kernels on the cob, cooked and ready for grating to make imitation fried oysters
Ingredients for corn fritter recipe: measured corn, egg, butter, salt, pepper, and flour in bowls on wooden surface
Creamed corn mixture in measuring cup for fried oyster imitation recipe
Butter melting in cast iron skillet for cooking green corn fried oyster imitation recipe
Fried corn fritters cooking in butter in cast iron skillet, golden and bubbling
Golden-brown corn fritters sizzling in cast iron skillet with melted butter, resembling fried oysters
Golden-brown fried corn patties arranged on white paper, imitation fried oysters recipe, crispy vegetarian appetizer
Two gourmet sandwiches with fried green corn patties, tomato slices, and fresh greens on crusty bread served on white plates

*This article is recommended reading! Transcribed here for posterity.

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