I met Pam Williams at a hearth cooking demonstration at the Hays House and enjoyed the rare chance to interact with a lively group of culinary history enthusiasts. I knew I wanted to reach out to her to be the first of what I hope will be a series of little interviews with various historians, authors, and chefs involved in preserving and celebrating Maryland’s culinary traditions.
In what she describes as a “mid-life crisis sort of move”, Pam Williams took a job with a historical tour company in Annapolis. “It opened so many doors that I never knew I’d love to look in so much.” In 1996, after 12 years there, she took a part-time job with the City of Bowie Historic Properties Division as a Museum Assistant. From there she eventually moved on to Assistant Director, and Director. “I feel so very lucky, privileged, fortunate, whatever to be in the position I hold. I love my job! (Except at budget preparation time!!!!)”
Which came first, your interest in cooking or your interest in history?
I think I’d have to say my interest in cooking came first. I’m from a large family, the eldest, and somehow I always knew how to cook something. My mother was an “intuitive cook,” making things that were really high level cuisine, and never realizing what she was doing. She was always my cooking inspiration. As a consequence of my historical employment, I got into reenacting. After being the chef de camp for a bit, I decided we needed to have some historical food in camp. It grew from there.
Can you tell me about some of the places you do or have done your hearth cooking demonstrations?
Belair Mansion, Hayes House, Smallwood’s Retreat, Jerusalem Mill…too many to recall!
What, if anything, do you think we stand to gain from studying the history of food and cooking?
Food is a common denominator. We all have to eat. Our ancestors had to eat. The quote below sums it all up nicely.
“You could argue that cooking is the activity that most defines us as humans. Dolphins have a language; crows can create tools. But only humans can cook. By cooking, we transform the mundane into something sacred. And then we share it with others. Food is the most shareable currency we have. You probably don’t pass out money to your friends, but you can pass the paella. But first you have to know how to make it.“
– Jim Sollisch’ New York Times,Sept. 4, 2013
Food teaches us where we’ve been, where we’re going, and how basically, people are the same over time…it’s an incredible connection to the past.
Has practice in reenactment and historical cooking methods changed the way you cook for yourself in every day life?
Actually, yes! I’ve learned to use spices in different ways, I’ve learned about the vast number of puddings, both sweet and savory, baked and boiled, and I make them at home. I make 18th century items for “home consumption,” as well as camp food.
At the Hays House you were working from Mary Randolph’s cookbook – are there any others you like to use and why?
Mrs. Randolph is a go-to for many of us. But there are many that we use, many that are available on line. Hannah Glasse, in all her prints and reprints over the 18th and early 19th century, is a sort of bible. John Nott. Eliza Smith. Harriet Horry Pinkney. While I don’t own a real live antique 18th century cookbook, I probably have 25 reproduction ones.
What comes to mind when you think of Maryland food?
MARYLAND Stuffed ham (because there are other kinds.) Without a doubt! My roots are in St. Mary’s County! Crabcakes/oysters/rockfish/fried chicken. Kale (the “national vegetable of Southern Maryland”!) I grew up in the southern quarter of the state – Prince George’s County, and those transplant north from St. Mary’s and Charles! I grew up with them. But, in general, Maryland has a wonderful diversity of foodways…German, Pennsylvania Dutch influence, Jewish, Italian…you name it. We have a truly multicultural menu in Maryland.
Do you have any future plans, goals or projects in mind with your work or upcoming appearances/events?
The Smallwood Foodways Guild cooks every third Sunday at Smallwood’s Retreat in Smallwood State Park in Marbury, below La Plata. I’ll be, along with some friends, cooking at the Market Fair at the Banneker Museum in Ellicott City in June. Those are the big ones…have spider/trivet, will travel!!!
All photos Kara Mae @ Hays House 2014.