I made this pie twice this year. Once with very ripe fruit and once with the ripe
but firm and white flesh seen above. I strongly recommend the latter.
If you are lucky enough to find some farmed paw-paws then this pie will be a crowd-pleaser. Otherwise there is an admittedly disappointing (bitter) aspect to this recipe. This pie is delicious but you may pay the price when you get that bite with the lingering bitterness. (Note: some people aren’t as sensitive to this bitter taste. For me it is quite strong!)
At the 2015 Ohio Paw Paw festival I inquired to the growers association
representative as to why the paw paw pie I’d first made a few years ago had
these bitter spots. I had a few theories – the pulp close to the skin, the
heat from the custard, the stage of ripeness. She informed me, as had Andrew Moore in his OLP interview, that this is just the gamble we take with wild fruits.
This recipe is adapted from my favorite banana cream pie formula – the custard is lightly flavored with alcohol such as vanilla extract or bourbon, the fruit is laid under the custard and its strong flavor permeates the custard above.
I used Cherry Bounce for flavoring and the result was subtle but tasty.
This recipe marks the end of paw paw season on Old Line Plate. I will be tossing the seeds into the woods at Wyman Park so that one year some day maybe I won’t have to leave the city when I want to make this pie.
Recipe:
Vanilla Wafer Crust
- 1.75 cups crushed vanilla wafers
- scant ½ cup of sugar
- ½ cup melted butter
Combine all ingredients and press into bottom and sides of a large pie dish. Bake at 375° for 5 minutes. Set aside to cool.
Pie filling:
- pulp from 1 or two large just ripe paw paw fruits
- 1/3 cup cornstarch
- 2/3 cup sugar
- ¼ tsp salt
- 3 cups milk, scalded
- 3 eggs, separated
- 2 tablespoons butter, melted
- 1 tsp flavoring eg vanilla, rum, brandy
- 2 tb sugar
- baked pastry shell
- optional: 1 packet gelatin
Combine cornstarch, 2/3 cup of sugar and salt in a double boiler or suitable pot, mix well. If you want to serve this as a stiff chilled pie later, you can add some gelatin at this point.Otherwise, the pie has a pudding-like texture. Gradually add milk over medium heat, stirring or gently whisking constantly, just until thickened.
(When I want to add additional flavoring I put it in while the custard is cooking and add a small remaining amount later)
Beat egg yolks in a bowl, whisk in about ¼ of hot custard mixture and then add back to custard in double boiler. Cook until thickened and bubbly.
Remove from heat, stir in butter and flavoring.
Spread paw paw pulp over pie crust and cover with custard.
Beat egg whites (at room temperature) until soft peaks form, gradually add sugar until meringue is stiffened – spread over custard, sealing to edges of pan. Bake at 350° for 5 minutes or until meringue is lightly browned. Serve pie warm or chilled.
