Crab Custard

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After all of that cookbook genealogy last week I need a little rest so here’s a crab recipe from “My Favorite Maryland Recipes.” Many people who may not be familiar with the Tawes name were made so recently when Maryland’s current governor elected to attend the J. Millard Tawes Crab & Clam Bake instead of the Republican Convention.

In all honesty this dish was just okay. Crab custard was winning a lot of recipe contests in the 1960s and a lot of those recipes were more seasoned than this. I recommend more mustard powder, Old Bay or hot sauce.

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Mr. & Mrs. J Millard Tawes, Maryland State Archives

I will add a little bit of filler in the form of clippings showing the long-standing tension between Maryland’s and Virginia’s natural resource management strategies. It seems that Maryland had long been begging Virginia to enact a law against harvesting female crabs with their eggs, aka “sponge crab.”

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Daily Times, Salisbury, 1944

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Star-Democrat, Easton, 1951

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Daily Times, Salisbury, 1962

As you can see, the resentment simmered for decades.

Virginia finally did pass such a law in 2010.

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Recipe:

1 Lb crab meat
2 eggs, beaten
1.5 Cup milk
.25 Teaspoon mustard powder
salt
pepper, black
butter

Beat eggs and add milk, mustard, salt and pepper to taste. Gently stir in crab meat. Place in a buttered casserole and dot with butter. Bake at 325° about 20 minutes, or until set.

Recipe adapted from “My Favorite Maryland Recipes”

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Steaming Crabs

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Crab season is finally in full swing for those of us who cling to the ‘late-summer through Thanksgiving is crab season’ principle. In my opinion, September is a great time to enjoy crabs because the weather is usually amazing, the last of the corn and watermelon are demanding to be eaten, and the frenzy of summer fun times is finally over.

This is the time when you can really kick back and appreciate the crab.

Warning: this post is FULL of my opinions.

First off, let me address southern naysayers who declare that steamed crabs have no flavor. Well, the flavor of a crab comes from the crab, not from all the spice. If I want to enjoy a bunch of spices (and I often do) I will get some cheap shrimp, rice, etc. When I shell out (ha) for crabs I want to taste the succulent crab meat.

Furthermore, I do not like to dip crab in butter for this same reason. Or vinegar! God, I’m getting worked up now… steamed even.

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Not many people steam their own crabs anymore. You can get great crabs all steamed up for you at no extra cost, saving the kitchen space demanded by a gigantic pot, keeping your fingers intact, and avoiding the horrors of killing a live animal before your eyes.

Aside from the experience and the excitement of your meal possibly giving you the attack you rightly deserve, the main difference in home-steamed crabs is going to be the seasonings.

I’m not as Old Bay-crazed as advertising directed at me seems to believe – I like J.O., Obrycki’s, all the other crab seasonings… J.O. is the one used by crab houses for the most part. So it is interesting to actually steam some crabs with Old Bay and taste the difference.

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Beer versus vinegar: I don’t want to impart any sour taste so I stick with *flat* beer. Vinegar is more popular in places with a history of temperance such as Smith Island.

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Live crabs: Don’t submerge them in water but do keep them cool and wet. A wet cardboard box works well. They are prone to escape so watch out, keep the box folded closed. And mind your fingers.

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Corn: I like grilled corn but steamed corn is pretty good too, especially when it’s in season and freshly picked.

A
dozen crabs and six ears of corn is a lot for two people but you can scrape
off the extra corn and pick the extra crab meat and put it into your
morning omelet or tomorrow’s soup.

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Recipe:

  • 1 dozen live male crabs
  • 1 flat beer
  • ½ cup crab seasoning

Put a can of flat beer and some water in the bottom of a steamer pot, to just below the rack. Put in your live crabs and then season them (that is the part that feels cruel somehow). Turn on the heat and steam for just under a half hour.  Crabs will be red and hot.

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