Cabbage Pudding or Stuffed Green Cabbage

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This is a good one if you are having some guests over and you want to be disappointed at how little impressed they are after you undertook a time-consuming process to present them with this delicious and elaborate stuffed cabbage. Don’t get me wrong: this was actually very good. It’s just that the end result out of the dutch oven makes one feel a little silly for going through the process of carefully peeling back cabbage leaves one by one.

This recipe came from “Maryland’s Way,” the Hammond-Harwood House cookbook, and the instructions were to place the cabbage on a draining rack in the sink and to “pour boiling water over it, a little at a time, carefully separating the leaves to open out cabbage head.” Between cooking and metalworking, my hands are like leather gloves but this still required me to carefully coax the leaves using a chopstick. If I had done my homework I might have found this helpful video with a much better method for opening up a cabbage.

As mentioned in the video, this was apparently a favorite dish of Thomas Jefferson’s. Mary Randolph also includes a version of the recipe in “The Virginia Housewife,” without explicit instructions for the stuffing. 19th century recipes often call for “forcemeat” which is any combination of ground meat, seasonings, bread, eggs, etc. – some recipes contain no meat at all.

In Maryland’s Way, the source is listed as “Miss Ann Chase’s Book,” dated 1811 and noted to be “Sophia Ridgely’s receipt, revised.” I am not positive of Sophia’s husband William’s relation to the Ridgelys of Hampton (shad roe croquettes) but I am sure there is one. Sophia was born Sophia Plater – of the Sotterly Plantation (jumbles) Platers.

Samuel Chase,
by Ole Erekson, Engraver, c1876, Library of Congress

Ann Chase was the daughter of Samuel Chase, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, and Justice of the Supreme Court. Thomas Jefferson, with the assistance of John Randolph of Roanoke (a distant relative of Mary Randolph, in fact,) impeached Chase, but Chase was acquitted.

They would have saved time just having some stuffed cabbage together since they all love it so dang much!

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Recipe:

  • 1 large green cabbage, savoy is best
  • 1 Tablespoon butter
  • 1 bunch onion, cut fine
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1 Lb ground veal*
  • .5 Lb ground pork, or more
  • 1 slice crumbled bread
  • 1 Tablespoon chopped parsley
  • .25 Teaspoon thyme
  • .25 Teaspoon marjoram
  • salt
  • black pepper

Aauté onions and garlic lightly in the butter, then add ground meat, bread crumbs, parsley and seasonings, browning slightly and blending together. Plunge cabbage into pot of boiling water and peel back the leaves, a little at a time, scalding cabbage again as necessary. Remove a small amount of the innermost leaves if necessary. Drain, then spoon stuffing between the leaves and over the center. Fold up outside leaves, closing cabbage in original form, and tie up with string or in a bag.

For the dutch oven:

  • 2 Tablespoons  butter
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 3 carrots, sliced
  • 1 cup meat broth
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 Teaspoon caraway seed
  • salt
  • flour

Melt butter in Dutch oven, arrange onion and carrots in bottom of pot and place stuffed cabbage on them. Pour stock around cabbage and add bay leaf and caraway seed. Sprinkle cabbage lightly with salt. Return lid to Dutch oven and bake in 250° oven for 1.5 to two hours, or until thermometer inserted registers safe meat temperature. Remove cabbage and vegetables to serving platter. Thicken sauce with flour serve over cabbage and vegetables. Serve the remainder in a tureen.

*I used all ground pork and it was fine; the key is to use good stock.

Recipe Adapted from Maryland’s Way: The Hammond-Harwood House cookbook

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Apple Toddy

Once again we return to “Maryland’s Way,” this time for a patience-testing take on a most cherished Maryland libation.

This recipe for “Apple Toddy,” one of many that I considered, comes from Louis Dorsey Gassaway (b.1862) of Annapolis. Although his mother was a member the notable Dorsey family, L. Dorsey Gassaway appears to have led a relatively humble life as a bank teller at the Farmers National Bank.

That doesn’t mean that he didn’t know how to party. This toddy recipe involves a lot of booze and a full year’s maturation.

Gassaway was also a member of the Freemasons Annapolis Lodge No. 89, where the “Gassaway” dining room bears his name to this day.

Like many of the “Maryland’s Way” recipe originators, Gassaway was also involved in documenting and preserving local history – collecting and publishing family histories… that sort of thing. Gassaway passed away in 1940.

“Forgotten Maryland Cocktails” by Nicole & Gregory Priebe was an invaluable resource for this recipe as I am not so schooled in booze.

According to the book:

“From the middle of the eighteenth century to the dawn of the twentieth, the toddy, a versatile and resilient precursor of the cocktail, dominated the landscape of American drinking…. Around the 1780s, a variant of the toddy appeared, even more popular in the Chesapeake region than the original: the apple toddy… Maryland had a special fondness for the drink that stretched into the early decades of the 1900s.”

The Gassaway receipt called for Peach Brandy, which I could not find. Thankfully the Priebes advise that a fine apple brandy is a good substitute. Instinct told me to avoid brandies which bore the word “flavored.”

The receipt did not specify on whiskey, so I used Pikesville Rye, “probably the most authentic” choice according to “Forgotten Maryland Cocktails.”

As for apples, my options were endless. Apples are king at the farmers market this time of year. I asked the very first orchard I came across for an apple similar to “Stayman” or “Winesap” and was recommended “Enterprise”. I went on to notice
that other vendors had Stayman and Winesap varieties, including
“Stayman Winesap.” Any of these types of apples will do, I’m sure.

I can’t comment on the outcome of this recipe, as it will be stored away until next winter. The Priebes cautioned that “for the uninitiated, the apple toddy can be quite the potent drink, especially if undiluted.” I only hope that I can remember the instruction to add water. Maybe I should write it on the jar…

I highly recommend this book to Maryland enthusiasts. In addition to many other drinks, it offers much more information on the Apple Toddy, chronicling its decline, resurrection, and a cautionary tale should you not “dilute! dilute! dilute!*”

Recipe:
  • 4 Stayman or Winesap apple
  • 4-6 cloves
  • ½ pint brandy
  • ½ pint peach brandy
  • ½ pint Jamaican Rum
  • ¼ lb sugar
  • 1 quart Whiskey, Maryland Rye preferred

Stick a few cloves in half of the apples and bake all until ready to burst. Dissolve sugar in a few tablespoons of water. Put the baked apples in a gallon jar.. Pour the liquors on them, cover the jar and let sit for 12 months.

To serve, add 3 pints of cold water, plus a lump of ice.

Recipe adapted from “Maryland’s Way: The Hammond-Harwood House Cookbook”

*That’s a little Dr. Bronner’s reference for you there. I can’t say the word dilute just once thanks to Dr. Bronner.

Mrs. Frederick W. Brune’s ‘Confederate Waffles‘

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This recipe comes from the “Maryland’s Way” cookbook via a “Mrs. Frederick W. Brune’s Book, 1860.” The source is likely the Brune Family Papers residing at the Maryland Historical Society. Other than delicious cornmeal waffles, the recipe led only to dead ends, with no real resolution or intrigue. There, I said it.

The Brune family legacy spans many generations in Baltimore, starting with the first Frederick W. Brune, a German who became a prominent Baltimore merchant after immigrating in 1799.

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His son, and his son were also named Frederick W. Brune, so the whole thing gets confusing. Timing suggests this book belonged to the wife of Frederick W. Brune II, maiden name Emily S. Barton.

Frederick W. Brune II was a founding member of the Maryland Historical society (MDHS). His son Frederick W. Brune III was a president of MDHS, as well as chief judge in the Maryland Court of Appeals.

The “Confederate Waffles, Mrs. Hubard’s Way” mystery remains. I couldn’t figure out who Mrs. Hubard was, although there was a Confederate colonel who could have known the family through politics. The recipe is not labeled as “Confederate” in the family papers. It may have been an addition for publication in “Maryland’s Way.” An employee at MDHS was so kind as to look into the Brune family papers for me, adding that they do not know whether the Brunes were confederate sympathizers but “it seems likely, because if you were in rich in Baltimore..” The name could possibly be a play on the corn-based Johnnycakes, which originate in New England.

Well there you have it. Hopefully I’ll return next week with something a little more interesting.

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Recipe:

  • 1 cup corn meal
  • 2 cups boiling water
  • 4 tb butter (optional: use part bacon grease)
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 1 cup flour
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 3 tsp baking powder
  • 2/3 cup milk

Stir cornmeal into boiling water until smooth. Add butter and stir until melted. Let cool before stirring in eggs, followed by flour, salt and baking powder. Thin with milk & pour batter into heated waffle iron.

Recipe adapted from “Maryland’s Way: The Hammond-Harwood House Cookbook”. Served above with berbere-spiced black-eyed pea fritters from “Afro-Vegan” by Bryant Terry

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Old Wye Mill Spoon Bread

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Recently, en route to Chincoteague, we made a stop at the “Old Wye Mill” in Wye Mills. We arrived just as this historic mill was winding into production, producing the week’s run of corn meal, grits or flour.

This mill has been “nearly
continuously grinding grain since 1682,″ and nearly a century after that produced flour
that fed George Washington’s army during the
Revolutionary War.

The mill changed hands many times amidst all the turmoil and growth in the region, grinding wheat, rye,
corn, oats, barley and buckwheat. Damage from hurricanes threatened the structure in the 1950s. By this time, the mill’s historical significance was recognized and the mill has since been supported and/or operated by government, community, Chesapeake College, the Maryland Historical Trust, finally passing into the hands of the Friends of Wye Mill who operate it now.

According to the miller, they have supplied corn meal to various nearby restaurants including the historic Robert Morris Inn. Although they also sell wheat flour, buckwheat flour, and grits, the corn meal is the most irresistible to take home. To really enjoy the taste and texture of this milled corn meal, I opted to make a spoon bread as a dinner side.

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Wye Grist Mill exterior

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The gears of the mill just starting up in the morning

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Images from Wye Grist Mill

Recipe:

  • 1 Cup water-ground cornmeal
  • 2 Cups cold water
  • 2 tb butter
  • 1 Teaspoon scant salt
  • 1 Cup half & half
  • 3 eggs

Put corn meal and water over low heat and stir until quite stiff. Melt butter into hot meal then add salt and milk or cream. Beat eggs until very light. When batter is slightly cooled, beat in the eggs. Bake in a well greased baking dish in 350° oven for 45 minutes or until firm.

Recipe adapted from “Maryland’s Way

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*there is no beer in this cornbread. I was on vacation.

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Atholl Corn Sticks

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Not only did this recipe give me a chance to utilize a corn-stick pan, it also involved one of my favorite (non-Maryland) historical topics – spite houses!

I got this recipe from Maryland’s Way. There it is listed as the receipt of a “Miss Fanny,” of “Atholl” in Anne Arundel County. I couldn’t determine who this might be so my guess is that she was a servant. I did however, learn this about the home known as Atholl:

“’Atholl’ was built in about 1860 by Richard W. Hardesty. According to local stories, Hardesty wanted to build his house on a rise nearby, called “Virginia Hill” because one should be able to see that state from the highest point. The Murrays, living in “Cedar Park” (AA-35-T-c) refused to sell the land to Hardesty so, for spite, he situated “Atholl” on his own land, on the other side of the road, in such a way that he was in direct view of the Murrays and could see the bay through their parlor windows.” – Maryland Historical Trust

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Atholl, Maryland Historical Trust

I renamed my version of this recipe to “Spite House Corn Sticks” and added a jalapeño. If you wanted to make them extra spiteful you could add 10 jalapeños.

Opinions vary strongly about whether cornbread should have sugar in it. My personal preference is “no,” and Miss Fanny seemed to agree. I find that cornmeal is quite sweet to begin with. I can enjoy a sweet piece of cornbread at the end of a meal but less sweet cornbread goes better WITH the meal. I served these with some lion’s mane mushroom gravy. It was tasty but not particularly picturesque.

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Recipe:

  • 2 eggs
  • .5 Cup flour
  • 1.5 Cup cornmeal
  • 4 Teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 Teaspoon salt
  • 1 Cup milk
  • 1 Tablespoon butter
  • Jalapeños, drained green chiles, etc as desired

Beat eggs until foamy. Sift flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt together and add to beaten eggs, alternating with the milk. Mix in melted butter. Heat oven to 425°. Grease iron corn stick molds well and put in oven to become hot. Drop about 1 Tb of batter in each mold. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes until brown.

Recipe adapted from “Maryland’s Way: The Hammond-Harwood House Cookbook”

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